R&D And Application Of Dressmaking Mannequin

Dressmaking mannequin has become a professional auxiliary tool for fashion design and production as it allows direct observation of the composition relationship between the somatotype and the clothes. Fashion design is no longer limited by 2D formula calculation and you can observe the effect of clothing and correct the intuitive problems in fashion design at any time on a dressmaking mannequin based on the need of designing and styling. It helps to solve many difficult styling problems in two-dimensional tailoring. For instance: the complicated styling with asymmetry, multiple folds and different fabric combinations in dress and fashion design can be achieved more directly with draping(dressmaking mannequin), with almost zero contact with human body, without being limited by the experience and imagination of the designer, so that better styling design can be realized.As a convenient and intuitive technique for fashion design and production, draping is deeply fascinated by dressmakers. It can realize the styling conceived by the fashion designer fast, and is more helpful for fashion pattern makers to make the pattern for production in a quick and reasonable manner. It has been improving the application of fashion designing and pattern making techniques in the industry. It can be seen that mannequin is an importance tool for realization of draping. Mannequin is widely used by clothing companies and fashion fans all around the world as a substitute of human body.However, most of the mannequins in China are naked mannequins. During dressmaking and styling on a naked mannequin, though the measurement line positioning is simple and accurate on the surface of mannequin, there is allowance for activity between the clothing and the human body. Therefore, the skill and experience of the operator is highly required. Now there is a large space for improvement of the research on the series of mannequin models in China. The study mentioned in this article is aiming at building a dressmaking mannequin with allowance based on the successful development and wide application of the dressmaking mannequin for teaching, by adding the basic allowance required for daily activities of human body based on the draping model for teaching, so as to increase the efficiency of draping and the suitability of clothing as well as reduce the difference caused by experience during the process of draping. The details of the study are shown below:(1) To survey and summarize the current somatotype of human body and the basic data status, the body sizes of 263 female respondents of somatotype A at age of 23-38 with body height of 158-169 cm in East China and North China were surveyed.(2) Based on the analysis of the static comfortable allowance of human body, the comfortable allowance for day-to-day activities and the allowance of intimate apparel, the basic allowance of the sample clothing for experiment was determined. A sample with beautiful styling and basic allowance at chest circumference was made with the dressmaking mannequin for teaching. Try-on comfort comparison was conducted with 20-person groups. Through 3D scanning, digitized body, mannequin, dressed mannequin and 80 layers of uniform cross sections were acquired. The coordinate values of 72 data points on different cross sections were taken and the space and on the same section before and after the mannequin was dressed were obtained by comparison. According to the applicable coverage of the sample on human body and the advantages of the styling on the mannequin, the sizes of bust, waist ahd hips of the dressmaking mannequin were determined.(3) The 3D scanning information on the dressmaking mannequin for teaching was pretreated by the reverse engineering software Geomagic Design X and the point cloud data of the key points and key planes of the mannequin were taken. Together with the accuracy of Japanese models and the beauty of French models, the model of the dressmaking mannequin was designed and constructed. With data information of predicted points from image processing, grid correction and profile identification, the information data of the BWH of the mannequin were obtained. With the key point information, the coordinates values of the important characteristic sections of the mannequin were generated and the profile modeling for the mannequin was carried out. As a result, the characteristic lines of neck circumference, shoulder circumference, upper chest circumference, bust, lower chest circumference, waist, middle hip circumference and hip circumference of the virtual dressmaking mannequin with allowance were built.(4) With the precision engineering of 3D printing technology, a dressmaking mannequin model with special profile characteristics was printed.