The Research Of QiPao’s Local Adornments

In the early fifty years of the twentieth century,Qipao was developing very quickly.In that period,Qipao was a one-piece dress,the top part and the skirt was together,the waist line was changing from loose to tight,it highlighted the body’s curves and used the darts to show women’s BWH(bust/waist/hip measurements).At the same time,the emergence of the shoulder seam and fitted sleeves made the decorative craft simple and elegant,with interesting and inclusivenessof that age.At that time,Qipao became Chinese women’s most characteristic and typical representative cloth,and laid a classic status in the history of Chinese women’s clothing.This thesis discusses Qipao’s local adornment,including collar,sleeves,opening,slits,hem,trim and frogs.Based on the existing literature and images,this thesis analyses these seven local ornament,to summarize the evolution process of Qipao’s local ornament.By measuring the existing Qipao,this thesis analyses the data of Qipao’s local ornament,the result shows the development and laws of existing Qipao’s local ornament in the early fifty years of the twentieth century.To disassembly and recombine Qipao’s local ornament,the local ornament can be divided into three groups,collar and sleeves,opening and buttons,hem,slits and trim.Based on design elements in different three periods: in the early fifty years of the 20 th century,the contemnor opry Qipao in China,and the contemporary Qipao abroad,this thesis analyzes the features and matching ways of Qipao’s local ornament.During the development of modern Qipao in China and abroad,new elements of local ornament are generated.According to the time,region,design philosophy and design methods,Qipao’s each part presents its partial features and design elements respectively.By comparison,the thesis analyzesmodern Qipao’s applicationfeatures of seven local ornament in China and abroad,to draw the direction of Qipao’s heritage and innovation.Through the research of Qipao’s local ornament,the conclusion is :(1)In the early fifty years of 20 th century,the shapes of Qipao’s local ornament were fixed.The main shapes referred to the classic ones,including seven local ornament,the innovation reflected on the detailed changes of the local ornament and the matching ways between them.(2)In the early fifty years of 20 th century,Qipao’s maturing statuswas widely accepted by society.By sorting out the existing Qipao in the early fifty years of 20 th century,it forms the basic technical analysis,which provides the technical parameters to the design of modern Qipao,and also provides technical samples to innovative design of Qipao in the near future.(3)By basic technical analyzing the daily Qipao in the early fifty years of 20 th century,it can be known that the local ornament were mainly traditional shape,it only had some subtle changes in the details of design and craft.The basic technical analysis of seven local ornaments shows that Qipao’s standing collar,openingare the constant local ornaments,the difference only exists in the details.Qipao’s traditional raglan sleeves are changing to use joined dressmaking elements methods,such as measuring the shoulder darts,shoulder pads and other structures.Qipao’s hem and slits are relatively stable elements,the main changes in its length,height and details of the crafts.Most of Qipao’s trimming are using binding,according to different fabric,choosing the plain fabric with same color or clash color,or without any trim.The frogs are different in each age,it changes from frogs to snapper,but the pattern of frogs is still the important feature.(4)Qipao’s development was going with the Western culture coming to China,trend,which was essentially a Chinese specialties cloth with with Western aesthetic,and it is a symbol of the modern civilization,it is also a Chinese women’s cloth supported by Chinese and abroad people.Comparing and analyzing the characteristics of Qipao in China and abroad in the early fifty years of 20 thcentury,it can be known the difference and laws between Qipao’s local ornaments,to find out how local ornaments affect the whole shape of Qipao.(5)By analyzing Qipao’s characteristics in China and abroad,the thesissummaries the developmentdirection of Qipao’s inheritance.Firstly,totally inherit,keeping the shape,structure and craft according to photos or real Qipao.Secondly,partly inherit based on Chinese culture,do some innovation on fabric,pattern and craft,keeping the implied and elegant beauty.Thirdly,combing the design ideas of Qipao’s elements in China and abroad,holding the shape feature,creating new local details,and combining elements to create mordant cloth styles with rich details and simple silhouette.