Study On The Design And Technology Of The Weft Breaking Denim

Since the 1980s,denim has been an indispensable part of people's life,and the demand for denim is high in the market every year,but most ofthe denim currently produced is made of pure cotton twill.The yarn raw material,fabric structure,the production process is single,the emergence of new materials,new technologies and new process have provided new business opportunities for denim fabrics.Therefore,there is urgent need to develop new denim fabric.This subject combines the fabric weave of denim fabric with the clothing washing process to design a kind of double weft weave fabrics,it is distributed weft yarn in the fabric lining layer and surface layer.The characteristics of washing treatment with jeans clothing,to make the face weft fracture,form various patterns,can achieve double weft weave fabrics of similar to jacquard effect.In order to study the washing jacquard with different thickness of denim fabric,the paper designs thick and thin two pairs of weft double organization denims.In view of the two groups of double weft weave denims,test set up different change factors.Change factor for thick one is yarn and weft density,the thin one is fabric weave and weft density.In this paper,12 thick double weft weave denim samples and 6 thin double weft weave denim samples were designed by total project test.After weaving,through the washing process the face weft of sample is broken to achieve the jacquard effect.To study the difference between the original sample and the grinding broken weft sample,each sample of the two types of denim clothing performance was been tested.The test content is:drape,tensile fracture,gas permeability,moisture permeability,abrasion property,and fuzzing and pilling.Finally,using fuzzy mathematics to compare the test results of each sample,chooses the ideal process combination of thick and thin double weft weave denim.The test and analysis results of the clothing performance of thick double weft weave denim shows,the sample of the unbroken weft yarn and grinding broken the weft yarn is consistent on the yarn raw material.When yarn raw material is lyocell/cotton blended yarn,the fracture breaking strength and crease resilience of sample are better.When the yarn raw material is lyocell/rayon yarn,the drape,gas permeability and moisture permeability of the sample are better.As the weft density increases,unbroken weft yarn double organization denim,the fracture breaking strength and crease recovery of the sample are first increased and then decreased,and gas permeability,moisture permeability and drapability are reduced,but the change of fuzzing and pilling is not obvious.As the weft density increases,the grinding broken weft yarn of the double weft weave denim,which the breaking strength is not obvious,the change of rapid elasticity and slow elasticity weft angle is less obvious warp angle.The moisture permeability,gas permeability and drapability of the sample are decreased,the fuzzing and pilling is improved greatly.The test and analysis results of the clothing performance of thin double weft weave denim shows,in the sample of unbroken weft yarn,when the back weave is 1/1 tabby,and the face weave is 1/3 right twill,the breaking strength and fuzzing and pilling of the sample is better.When the back weave is 1/1 tabby,and the face weave is 1/7 right twill,the crease resilience,drapability,gas permeability and moisture permeability is better.With the increase of the weft density of unbroken weft yarn,the crease resilience,gas permeability and moisture permeability decrease,the breaking strength,drapability,and fuzzing and pilling is better.In the sample of grinding broken weft yarn,when the back weave is 1/1 tabby,and the face weave is 1/3 right twill,the breaking strength of sample is better.When the back weave is 1/1 tabby,and the face weave is 1/7 right twill,the crease resilience,moisture permeability,gas permeability and drapability of the sample is better,and there is no obvious change in the fuzzing and pilling.As the grinding broken weft yarn denim increases of weft density,the breaking strength increases,the crease resilience,moisture permeability,gas permeability and drapability is poor,and the change of fuzzing and pilling is not obvious.Through the fuzzy mathematics comprehensive analysis,and taking into account the final clothing performance only carry on the processing partially grind broken weft,high requirement for not grinded part.Therefore,the ideal combination scheme is:yarn raw material is lyocell/cotton blended yarn,and thick denim fabric weft density of 30 root/cm is better.The fabric structure is organized in the form of back weave is 1/1 tabby,face weave is 1/3 right twill,and the thin denim fabric weft density of 20 root/cm is better.According to the experiment results,we choose thick denim to make a test,and the lyocell/cotton yarn is used as the raw material of warp yarn,staining and sizing are carried out using the rope dyeing process route,through the weaving technology,combined with garment washing method,the appearance of the garment has a concave and convex feeling,which enhances the appearance of the costume and achieves the desired purpose.