The Application Research Of Biofeedback Technology Monitoring Rock Climbing Fatigue

Objective: rock climbing is a sports need to transfer the whole body muscle mainly to participate in,exercise intensity is great,very prone to fatigue.Climbing exercise fatigue hinder the improvement of the climbing performance athletes.In order to better monitor rock climbing exercise fatigue,provide the basis for the reasonable training plan.This study biofeedback technology was applied to monitor rock climbing exercise fatigue.Biofeedback technology with real-time,noninvasive,accurate,comprehensive,easy to operate and other advantages,can make up for the deficiency existing in the current monitoring means climbing the exercise fatigue.Methods: this study selected PanYanDui 11 players in jiangxi province(2 above),wear heart rate belt and biological feedback information collection device,using the difficulty coefficient is5.5.A classic training course training,on the basis of continuous climbing fatigue athletes by quiet state gradually into the state.Through real-time monitoring maximum heart rate and subjective feeling,such as reaction time to evaluate the comprehensive indicators to determine fatigue athletes enter a state of fatigue and then through monitoring the heart rate and other indicators to determine the athletes entered into a state of recovery.And recovery quiet-fatigue-three phases obtain real-time biofeedback various indexes before and after their comparison,analysis the change law of each index value and curve to explore different indicators appear fatigue characteristic changes of time sequence.Results: through the analysis of experimental data,the recovery quiet-fatigue-three stages with HRV,sEMG and SC indicators are appeared characteristic changes.1)HRV: recovery quiet-fatigue-three phase,the fatigue state LF Power(%),HRV index rising trend(p < 0.05),restore state and presented down trend.R-R between the standard deviation(standard deviation,SDNN),the phase difference between adjacent R-R RMS values(root mean square of successive differences RMSSD),sinus arrhythmia(absolute sinus arrhythmia,SAa)such as index fell.VLF Power(%)(very low frequency Power %)is on the rise;(2)the s EMG: tired the median frequency(MF)and mean power frequency(MPF)show significant decline,rising recovery state,restore later with close when quiet state;(3)SCL: tired,SCL value present a fast to reduce the trend,restore the state,SCL value and present a significant rise trend,peak as high as 38 mu s.General stationary phase to quickly reduce the period and stable period,a sharp rise,blood volume fingertip amplitude(BVP),no significant change.Conclusion:1 Biofeedback technology monitoring rock climbing exercise fatigue,athletes in the state of different biological feedback signal characteristic changes,can monitor climbing exercise fatigue.Characteristic changes are as follows:(1)reflect the HRV cardiac function indexes appeared when the athletes fatigue characteristic changes: some indicators LF/HF Power rise to stable trend,another part of the index such as SDNN showed a trend of decline-stability;(2)the index reflecting the sEMG change of muscle function have appeared in the characteristic changes: MPF in quiet-fatigue-such as three phase,and steady decline;(3)reflect the index of skin electric SC also appeared when athletes fatigue characteristic changes: SCL value in quiet-fatigue-three stage,a dramatic increase in overall smooth appeared to quickly reduce,three phases,BVP,no significant change.2 Rock climbers in the tired,the first is characteristic changes of cardiac function index,the second is muscle function index,the last is the change of the galvanic skin,it can be seen in the order of the exercise fatigue rock climbers for "he heart-peripheral muscle".