Wearbility And Product Development Of Apocynum/Modal/Acrylic Blended Fabric

Apocynum is a kind of wild high fiber plant,which is not only has precious medicinal value,but also has rich economic value.The fiber attached to the skin of the stem is the raw material for making yarns of the fabric.The garments made from apocynum fiber have the characteristics of good air permeability,strong moisture absorption,softness,bacteriostasis and also cool in winter and cool in summer.So apocynum fiber is recognized as an ideal natural textile material.However,apocynum fiber is a kind of phloem fiber,it needs to be degummed.After degumming,the fiber bundles increased and twisted together and produce a large number of neps.The strength of the fiber was damaged,the short fiber increased,and the length difference increased.These characteristics have greatly increased the difficulties of yarn spinning.Such as difficulties in netting in opening and cleaning process,more flat strips in carding process,high yarn breakage rate,poor yarn unevenness and so on.In that case,apocynum is widely used in the field of knitting yarns.This paper systematically analyzes the apocynum from fiber,yarn to fabric respectively.Some characteristics of apocynum fiber were firstly studied.In order to make apocynum blended with acrylic and modal with different blending ratio.Setting reasonable parameters of pre-spinning process is necessary.The orthogonal test in four factors and four levels was carried out to formulate optimal carding process.In view of the development of apocynum blended products,the effects of complete condensing spinning system and four rollers lattice apron compact spinning system on yarn properties were compared.And then,the effects of different blending ratios(apocynum/modal/acrylic 30/20/50,34/23/43,40/27/33,48/32/20)on yarn strength,evenness and hairiness were discussed.Using dissolution method and Hamilton transfer index to analyze the fiber loss and radial distribution of the fiber.Finally,the wearing and anti-bacterial properties,including bursting strength,abrasion resistance,wicking effect,permeability,fabric style characteristic and antibacterial property of the apocynum knitted blended fabrics were studied,and compared with the linen blended knitted fabric and cotton fabric.Using grey clustering analysis and Matlab genetic algorithm to evaluate the comprehensive performance of fabric and optimize the theoretical content of apocynum fiber,which provides a certain reference for the development and design of apocynum fabrics.According to the experiments,the results show that:(1)The blending ratio has a great influence on the performance of apocynum/acrylic/modal blended yarn.With the increase of apocynum fiber,the breaking strength of the yarn decreased.When the apocynum fiber reached 40%,the breaking strength of the yarn increased slightly and then continued to decrease.The elongation at break of yarn decreased at first and then rose.The yarn has the best performance while the content of apocynum fiber is 40%.(2)When the content of apocynum fiber increased from 30%,34%,40% to 48%,the fiber loss rate was 6.3%,8.2%,12.7% and 15.4% respectively,which means the spinning difficulty was increased.In different ratio of apocynum/acrylic/modal blended yarn,the apocynum fiber has a tendency to the outside of the yarn body,while the acrylic and modal fibers have a tendency to the inside of the yarn body.(3)The comprehensive performance of apocynum/acrylic/modal fabric is better than that of linen/cotton fabric and cotton fabric.When the apocynum fiber is 40% or above,the comprehensive performance of apocynum/acrylic/modal blended fabric is the best.In the design of apocynum/acrylic/modal blended knitted fabrics,the theoretical content of apocynum fiber should be 37%,50%,and 45% when the processability,appearance,health performance of the fabric were considered to be importance.