| In recent years, the problems of supply and demand of the chemical fibers, which using oil as a raw material have arisen, because of the shortage of oil resources. at the same time, the price fluctuation of cotton is increasing therefore it is difficult to keep a balance between supply and demand of cotton fibers. The rapidly growing population of the world has also lead to a limitation in area for cotton plantation,In addition, with the enhancement of environmental protection consciousness amongst the general public, people have realized that increased use of traditional chemical fibers has a big negative impact on natural degradation. In this case, some new kind of green environmental protection fibers have attracted more and more attention. Akund fiber is one of them, it belongs to natural cellulose fiber it has very good fineness, light weight, antibacterial, good luster, good warmth retention property, good moisture absorption and chemical resistance, what is more is that it can be degraded naturally, all of these good properties make it a potential fiber in textile field.However, the features of low fiber strength, poor coherent, breaking and floating easily, which make the production process of Akund yarn more difficult has limited the development of Akund fiber in textile. In this paper, the spinning process of Akund fiber has been researched and a thermal underwear fabric which has high fabric strength has been developed based on the characteristics of good warmth retention property of Akund fibers. The research about the potential application of Akund fiber for manufacture of thermal underwear fabric will make Akund fiber products spread in the market. The specific content of the research is as follows:Firstly, the Akund fiber basic properties namely:fiber length, fiber strength and moisture regain were tested, and then the Akund yarn manufacture parameters were chosen based on the fiber properties. The test results show that the strength of Akund fiber is weak(1.96 cN/dtex) compared to the existing literature.we attempted to produce yarns from Akund fiber with different machine parameters in vain due to low strength of Akund fibers. We therefore had to blend cotton fibers with Akund fibers to improve the strength of the yarn.Akund/cotton blended yarns which composed of 60% of Akund fibers and 40% cotton were produced. Producing Akund/cotton blended yarns solved problems of web broken and spinning entanglements. Finally, the spinning could be done successfully. However, the strength properties of the Akund/cotton blended yarns was too low to meet the requirement of the later yarn processing, which is 10.75 cN/dtex.Secondly, the Akund/cotton yarns in different blending ratios(30/70,40/60,50/50) were produced, and their properties tested, the test results show that the properties of blended yarns improved when Akund fibers in the blended yarns were reduced, but the strength of the blended yarns still could not meet the requirement for later yarn processing. The Akund/cotton/polyster blended yarns were subsequently produced and their properties tested. The test results revealed that the properties of Akund/cotton/polyster blended yarns are better than Akund/cotton blended yarns.Thirdly, 8 pieces of knitted fabric in different blending ratio were made with the purpose of getting the best thermal underwear fabric. The tensile strength, warmth retention, air and moisture permeability, wear resistance of the fabrics produced were tested respectively. The results showed that the Akund/cotton/polyester blended fabric is better than Akund/cotton blended fabri c in tensile strength, air permeability and wear resistance, but is worse in warmth retention and moisture permeability when these two kinds of blended fabrics contain same ratio of Akund fibers. Finally, the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation model have been used to evaluate the properties of the fabrics, and the result shows that the properties of Akund/cotton/polyester(40/60)blended fabric is the best.Fourthly, in order to improve the propreties of the Akund/cotton/polyester(40/60) blended yarns, the process optimization have been done. In this process, the three single factors(twist coefficient, draft multiple in the rear section and nip gauge) were considered to design an orthogonal experiment. Through the range analysis and variance analysis, the optimum spinning parameters have obtained: twist coefficient is 390, draft multiple in the rear section is 1.1 and the nip gauge is 2.5mm.Finally, the high hollowness of Akund fibers lead to the difference in diameter of Akund blended yarns and cotton yarns, so the twist coefficient have been corrected. |