Reserch On Body Build Of 30-40 Middle Aged Male In Shanghai And The Pattern Of Men's Fit Warm Pant

In winter,thermo pants are major garments to protect people against cold weather.People' s demands for thermo pants increase with the development of the times.In order to meet the requirements of both comfort and aesthetics,the studies of patterns regarding the best clothing fitness should be firstly taken into consideration.This research is a collaborative project with Wacoal Corp.,who called for the adjustment of their patterns to fit the body feature of 30-40 years old male customers in Shanghai District.Therefore,the research started with the collection of human figure data and the study of physiques,and followed by the improvement of patterns.Five main study aspects are as follows:A self-designed questionnaire survey of 230 men in Shanghai District showed that the majority of male customers wore thermo pants in winter,and were willing to try new products from new brands.Most consumers prefer medium-waisted fit thermo pants with simplified patterns,and show preference for fabrics of which the elasticity performance slightly higher than medium—elastic fabrics.Cotton,modal and bamboo fiber materials are highly popular.In the meanwhile,fitness problems of existing products reflect in pants' length,erotch area,thigh area and waist-buttocks area;and crotch area,buttocks area and knee areas during movement.2)Hunan body figure data were collected by means of both manual measurement and 3D body scanning.18 body parts on 57 subjects were measured manually.A total of 94 three dimensional body models were built based on scanning samples,and 48 body parts were precisely measured via three-dimensional measurement software.3)According to the analysis results of SPSS,the average somatotype of middle-aged males in Shanghai is a little plump,which comes between Type B and Type C under national standards;there are positive correlation between altitude data and body height,and positive correlation between girth data and waistline.On the basis of Factor Analysis,the components of the five classes,girth,height,waist width,horizontal distance,and crotch length were obtained.On the basis of Return Analysis,equations with one or two variables regarding the measures of different body areas and body height or hipline were also obtained.4)Adjustment was conducted on the Size M standard mannequin with a body height of 170 cm,to match the body figure of middle-aged subjects.The first—degree prototype of thermo pants was built via drafting and pattern making.After certain studies of the prototype,the relationship among back crotch width,back bodice jut-out value and back crotch tilt angle was obtained,so were their optimal values.The quantitative research on crotch width and crotch depth was also conducted.The second-degree prototype was acquired after reasonable grading of the first degree prototype.Then side seams of the second-degree prototype were simulated as straight lines so that the front and the back can be merged together,and thus the final basic pattern was gained.Subjective comfort sensation rating tests of the sample pants,made by Wacoal company,in comparison with old product,was lastly conducted.5)The bodily form of the lower part of human body was descriptively analyzed from bones,muscles,skins,fat,the axis of lower limbs,five aspects.Two pairs of thermo pants were designed based on the basic pattern and displayed in the 3D virtual fitting software,to prove that the improvement had a significant effectiveness.