| Silk fiber is the most commonly used natural fiber,because of its soft hand feel and excellent moisture absorption.It is often used as a summer clothing material,however,its shortcomings such as mostly thin and light,poor light resistance,and easy to stick to the skin have restricted its further development.Persimmon juice is Chinese traditional natural dye material,which has important cultural values,and imparts many important characteristics on fabric,including water-resistant,antibacterial,and anti-ultraviolet.The ability to strengthen persimmon dyed fabric's coloration through sun exposure gives it an advantage over other natural dyes.The application of persimmon dye to the wet processing of textiles has the characteristics of eco-environmental protection and high development value.Therefore,the paper uses persimmon juice to dye silk fabric,aiming at the problem that the fabric feels hard after persimmon dyeing,optimized the dyeing process,explored the dyeing mechanism of persimmon dye,analyzed the mechanical properties and thermal and wet comfort properties of persimmon juice dyed fabrics,providing theoretical support for the application of persimmon dye in textiles and reference for the analysis of other traditional crafts.The paper selects different dyeing process parameters(dilution ratio,the number of dying times,bath ratio and pH value),the K/S value was used to obtain the appropriate range of dyeing process parameters.The Scanning Electron Microscope and infrared spectrum were used to analyze and test the surface morphology and chemical components of the dyed fabric,color fastness and UV protection of the fabric were tested.The results show that the optimum conditions for direct dyeing of persimmon extract on silk fabrics are dilution ratio 1:3,the number of dying times is 8 times,bath ratio1:40,pH=6.Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometer conclude the dyed silk fabric surface presents condensed tannins;the dyed silk fabric has good color fastness and UV protection properties;Mechanical properties were evaluated under different dilution ratios and the number of dyeing times by Kawabata Evaluation System,tested the fabric style of silk fabric dyed under the optimized dyeing process.12 kinds of silk fabrics were selected for dyeing under the optimized process,tested the thermal and wet comfort performance,paired-sample t-test was used for analysis;the coefficient of variation method was applied to obtain the weight of each index,and fuzzy comprehensive evaluation was carried out on 12 kinds of dyed silk fabrics.The results show that: with the increase of the dilution ratio and the number of dying times,the fabric's tensile resilience,compression linearity and coefficient of friction are decrease,shear stiffness,bending stiffness,fabric weight and thickness increase;the silk fabric dyed with persimmon juice has a special fabric style,is soft and has bones,does not stick to the skin and is durable.Comparing the silk fabrics before and after dyeing,the air permeability,clo value,and the warm and cold feeling of the fabric after dyeing are improved,the moisture regain and moisture permeability have not changed significantly compared with the undyed silk fabrics,the dyed silk fabrics are very cool and comfortable,suitable for summer use.After dyeing,1# plain weave fabric has the highest comprehensive evaluation of thermal and wet comfort property. |
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