The Research And Development Of Imitating Kesi Jacquard Clothing

Ke Si is the essence of Chinese silk artwork,its process has a long history and unique artistic charm.its raw material is raw silk.As the silk handicraft,it weaved by raw silk in warp and colorful boiled-off silk in weft.the weaving method is unique with the looms which only can weave plain in hand-made.First drawing the pattern’s outline in warps,according with the pattern and colors then weaving partly by some small shuttles.This article first studied the traditional kesi fabrics,and mainly discussed its pattern design and weave structure.The study found that the traditional kesi theme is divided into three main categories: auspicious theme,flower theme and character themes.In the weave structure,the kesi pattern mainly uses the plain weave to carry on the weaving,the fabric’s texture effect mainly through its special knitting weaving craft to realize.Through menstruation broken weft,patterns have slightly holes in the two-color interface,it’s like carving effect.After understanding the traditional kesi fabric,according to the characteristics of kesi fabric pattern and weave,the article analyzed the possibility of using three kinds fabric weave to realize the kesi effect jacquard fabric from the perspective of the single-fabric,weft backed weave and double weave can realize double effects organization with combining kesi weave.The results of theoretical analysis show that weaving of jacquard fabric can be achieved only by double or multi-layer structure.After determining the basic fabric weave and analyzing the two joint methods aimed imitating kesi jacquard fabric,three samples were designed to weaving by controlling the raw materials,the weft and the row and the same yarn density.The sample analysis showed that the jacquard fabric with closest fabric style to the traditional kesi fabric used the interchanged double weave method on the basis of double weave.According to the jacquard fabric design theory of imitating kesi effect,three samples were designed with the reference of current fashion style in three kesi theme.Combining the traditional elements with modern colors,three series of jacquard fabric with kesi effect was designed,including Prosperity Brought by the dragon and the Phoenix,the Life for Theater and Royal Embroidery Workshop.