A Study Of Chinese Traditional Textile Printing

The purpose of this dissertation is to experiment on the Chinese traditional textile printing history through historical documents investigation, survey on traditional folk textile printing, examination of the binder ingredients, and analysis the distinctions and principles of various textile printing technologies. Finally, draw the outline of the development of Chinese traditional textile printing and return to its original technology. The brief and content of this thesis are introduced as following:1. Chinese traditional textile printing can be diversified categorized from the different percepts of technology and utility. This dissertation tries to clarify diversified categories of textile printing and gives the meaning of classification on traditional textile printing research on the base of old classification. The textile printing technologies developed differently from early to lately through Chinese history, which changed accordingly between inheritance from ancestors and influence to descendants. The technology of pattern print principles, using tools and dyestuff or other materials are important links during history change. The first textile print in China was direct print which was inherited from Chinese painting and seal tradition. It became the origin of engraving printing in Tang dynasty, then spread for thousands of years. Nevertheless, resist print is the main stream of Chinese traditional textile print which begins in Han and Jin dynasties, comes to maturity in Tang dynasty. Yet, there is overlapping of the patterning method and tools use between direct print and resist print.2. Chinese clip dye ' Jiaxie' has been paid attention to its beautiful impression as well as its complicated technology. Through elaborate examination on historical documents, precise analysis to the textiles, investigation on the rural technology in southern Zhejiang province of 'Jiaxie' and its experiment, this dissertation concludes that 'Jiaxie' can be divided into single color and multi-color two categories. The dyestuff solution spreads the clipped fabric through the engraved space of a pair of plates. This technology can be divided into: dyeing multi-color at one step method, dyeing single color at one step method and dyeing multi-color in sequence method. Chinese clip dye began in Kaiyuan-Tienbao period of latter flourishing Tang dynasty. Then prevailed among the early period of mid and late Tang dynasty, which spread to Japan as well. After Tang dynasty, this technology is still lasting from some random evidence through Liao, Song, Ming and Qing dynasties. Recently, the blue and white clip dyed cover in southern Zhejiang province, and colorful clip dyed cover of Tanka in Tibet, is seem to be sole survivor of the clip dye. This research verifies each method of clip dye according to ancient technology. The experiment on serial silk prints (clip dye) of "Nan WuSi Ja Mo Ni Fo" (the Buddha) is the first case in the country.3. For the time being, traditional gold print technology lacks professional research, especially on the property of gold print binder which has been highly suspicious. This dissertation elaborates on the history of gold print, classification and its characteristic, to analyze and test on the binder used in Yuan dynasty with scientific method foremost, and to fill the vacant area in research. Chinese textile gold print technology was originated in Han to Jing dynasties, developed in Tang dynasty and flourished in Song and Yuan dynasties. To Paste gold, mash gold and melt gold are the main methods used in textile print. The binder used in gold print in Yuan dynasty was tested and compare with infrared spectrum, its PET value is 2017.5. This can determine that the major component of the binder is belonged to vegetable glue. Base on this test conclusion to duplicate the gold paste print on textile, its effect is very close to the original piece in Yuan dynasty.4. The blue-white print fabric, transpired strong folklore, is a distinctively traditional craft with its color, pattern and material processi...