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Study On Design,Technic And Performa Nce Of PTT Seamless Knitted Garment

Posted on:2012-11-06Degree:DoctorType:Dissertation
Country:ChinaCandidate:S M ZhouFull Text:PDF
GTID:1111330374954060Subject:Textile materials and textile design
Abstract/Summary:PDF Full Text Request
In recent years, seamless knitting products have developed rapidly in the world, and expand the application areas gradually with the using of new fiber. With the studying on new PTT fiber using in seanless knitting products and quantificational relationship between finished garment size and these factors such as materials sorts, surface density, fabric structure, machine gauge, a new prediction method for seamless knitted fabric structure and finished size was established. Using this new method, knitted fabric structure parameters and seamless garment's size can be predicted by material sort, surface density, machine gauge and fabric texture. The old experiential design method which was both time consuming and tedious was be improve by thie prediction method.PTT is a new kind of polymer materials, it had achieved industrialized production successfully in the mid-1990s.PTT fiber is a perfect material for knitting garment because of its excellent bulk properties, elastic recovery, and dyeability. This fiber makes the knitting products soft,flexible and stable. In this paper, we produced a series of new material seamless knitting garment.PTT fiber was used in these products with other general materials and the new fiber using technical problerms was studied and solved in this paper.1) Design and technics of PTT seamless productsIn the design of seamless knitted garments, every garment part was ranged by human body part,fabric structure and material.PTT fiber was used with other fibers,with proper dying and finishing process,seamless garments were produced.There was strip unevenness which couldn't be eliminated by technical adjustments on the surface of PTT/PET plain fabric. In this paper, we studied on the structure of original PTT/PET fiber and its fiber which has been processed by finishing process, and the cause of strip unevenness was analyzed. The results showed that the three-dimensional spiral crimp of PTT/PET is spiral around and constantly flip, that is the genesis of unevenness. Based on this, a new PTT/PET filament was made by improving the spinning process. The "random strip unevenness" of knitted fabric was disappeared using the new PTT/PET filament in knitting fabric, and the surface of new fabric is uniform and aesthetic.2) Infuence factors of seamless knitting products'structureOn the basis of testing the fabric structure parameters and finished size of seamless knitted garments, this paper investigated the influence of some important factors including fiber sort, surface density and fabric texture on seamless knitted fabric structure and finished size at first. It was found that on normal manufacture conditions, finished products'fabric structures are decided by the materials sorts and surface density. The fabric structure and machine gauge determine the garment size.3) Prediction of seamless knitting products'stuctureBased on above studies, seamless products were classified as different groups with fiber material and fabric structure,which was the most important influence of seamless garment structure. Interval estimation of every group's fabric density was calculated, than we give the fabric density datasheet which can be used in producing. We analyzed the relationship between garment size and fabric density, and than give the formulas which can prediction garment size by machine size, material and fabric structure, or calculate the knitted stitch number by garment size, material and fabric structure.4) Software of seamless knitting products'design and predictionOn the basis of previous studies, this topic established a model of the apparel'size forecasting algorithm based on the types of raw materials,fabric weight,stitch structure and other structure parameters of seamless knitted apparel. Software interface was designed by using Visual Basic 6.0 as a database development platform and visual objects were added, based on this, seamless knitting forecasting system was established; It used approach of event-driven to develop program, and interconnected all the functional modules; Then established a database for the raw materials,specifications,stitch structure,machine gauge,pin counts,tension and other process parameters,various process documentation etc, with Access2003. This software is developed to meet the requirement of the mills. Several aims were realized as following:it can design garment style and process,forecasting the size of product quickly; And the products'database can be maintained properly.5) Material and technics influence on knitting products'elasticityAt last, for testing the effect of PTT fiber using in seamless products, we test the elasticity, recoverability, plastic deformation and fatigue property of seamless knitting products which are respective made from PET/PTT parataxis compound yarn and core-spun spandex based on the standard of KES system. And we compare their properties with same material and texture products which are made by the common large diameter circular knitting machine. Find the elasticity of the products made from the PET/PTT parataxis compound yarn is smaller than the core-spun spandex products,but their recoverability is bigger; When the material and texture are same, the seamless knitting products'elasticity and recoverability are bigger than the products which are made by common large diameter circular knitting machine. Find the effect of different base yarn on products'elasticity, and be an act of referring for the applying of different elastic base yarn in different products.
Keywords/Search Tags:seamless knitting product, PTT fiber, PET/PTT parataxis compound fiber, structure design, Loop density, elasticity of fabric, recoverability of fabric
PDF Full Text Request
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