Research On Bra Pattern Design Based On The Surface Modeling Technology

With the economic growth and the epoch advancement, the garment can be appreciated by people better and better. The consciousness of well-fitted garment for the consumers is quite keen. Fit has been widely considered one of the most important factors which affect garment appearance and sale. So fit can be more important than style, color, construction, price and fabric for garment.Bra, a foundation garment used to lift breast tissue and provide support, is one of the most complicated lingerie products. Beautiful and well-fitted bras are not only attractive in themselves; they can also improve the overall appearance of the wearer and impact women’s health. However, the magazine and broadcasting station had reported for many years that about 80% women were wearing unfitted bras which were related to physiology. Moreover, it was reported medically that a bra originally as an amulet was a chief criminal of torturing and damaging breasts because of the tightened cups. Therefore, it is inevitable to make bra customization.There are many factors of affecting bra fit, such as body form, bra size, pattern shape and structure, fabric properties, quality control, sewing process and performance, and etc. The first step of bra customization depends on investigating the customer’s measurements and getting the corresponding relationship between the bra size and body parameters. So in this project one of the main tasks is to explore the method of symbolizing female breasts, breast performance and diversification regulation.Based on the literature review and practice investigation, it was found that bra pattern was the key point to directly influence the bra fitting. As Dobson in 1885 described, garment pattern was the emblem of highest skill in the art of forming models. Those patterns were supposed to guide the simplest and most accurate way of fitting the human figure. However, Patterns for bras might be traditionally constructed by either 2D flat cutting on paper or by 3D modeling with fabric directly onto the mannequin. In the industry, pattern construction was usually based on empirical knowledge and this led to a time-consuming and cost-intensive process of trial and error in the development of new products. Bra pattern design had been a bottle neck process. In this paper, the method of parameterized bra pattern design based on the surface modeling technology was explored. Furthermore, the corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast as well as the effect of parameters on bra fitting were investigated. The scheme was supported by the planned project of scientific research in Shanghai scientific committee: the crucial technology research of the electronic Made To Measure Apparelcooperated by China and Europe -- eMTM and Wacol ? Donghua anthropometricproject. The study dealt with apparel anthropological engineering, anthropometry, anthropotomy, apparel formative design, three-dimensional body scan, surface modeling technology, free-form-deformation and etc. The research offspring was the results of multi-subject intersection.①The character of young female breast form and variation regulation of different cups were revealed by spot check randomly and SPSS statistical analysis. Five main token factors of female breast form were established: breast plump factor, breast configuration factor, breast detailed shape factor, breast orientation factor and trunk girth variation factor. The results provided basic data and academic foundation for bra pattern design.②The prerequisite corresponding parameters of body shape for bra pattern design were extracted scientifically by Pearson correlation analysis and regression analysis. The linear regression math models of the related control variable were established. They were the favorable foundations of mass-produced bra pattern design.③On the basis of confirming the female breast form through statistic data, the young female optimal breast shape was built. The method of acquiring cup dart parameters based on the breast measurements was developed by LabVIEW software platform, analytic geometry and numerical value methods. It solved the pivot technical problem of bra cup pattern design for young women.④It is necessary for bra pattern design to have a 3D female breast model. However, it is not realistic to keep physical dummies of different sizes. In this paper, a brand-new abstract breast model library was presented on the basis of 3D scan data and surface modeling technology for the first time. A very useful improved FFD technology with varying weight used in both computer animation and geometric modeling was skillfully transplanted to the female breast model deformation for bra design. The library focusing on the detailed individual variations in the shape and size of the female breast by interaction has a strong potential of being used for bra style, pattern design and bra fitting to meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market. Then according to the principle of isometric area and flabellate segments, the personalized bra cup dart quantity and its distributive information were provided by 3D-2D transformation. The cup darts were mainly distributed below the bust line. Moreover, dart shapes were curvy. The novel findings provided an important guideline for designers to improve the well-fitted bra pattern design technique.⑤The parameterized bra pattern design based on surface modeling and 3D-2D transformation technologies was developed after analyzing the existed methods and techniques of bra pattern design. The formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern design were first created. The corresponding parameter relationship between bra pattern design and female breast measurements was established. The method of fitted bra parameterized pattern design was truly realized.⑥The check procedures, items, requirements, quantity scale and weighted vectors of assorted judge factors for evaluating bra fitting were established by integrating the character of intimate apparel technology and applying the method of Analytic HierarchyProcess presented by Saaty. W = (0.035,0.432,0.203,0.099,0.231) , which respectivelyindicated the weighted vectors of bra shoulder belt, cup, wire, gore and the bottom of wing. Finally, the fuzzy synthesized subjective evaluating model for bra fitting was built.The detailed corresponding bra cup dart parameters could be quickly predicted from the young female optimal breast model and the individual 3D virtual female breast shape library which solved the crucial technical problem of bra pattern design. Furthermore, the database of visual female breast shape would reduce the manufacturing cost and improve the work efficiency without keeping physical dummies. Meanwhile, it was validated that the method of the parameterized bra pattern design and the created formulae of the cradle, wing inclination and etc. for bra pattern could meet "made-to-measure" demand of the booming bra market, which provided the foundation for intellectualized CAD bra pattern design. Moreover, a set of quantitative fuzzy integrated identification system for bra fitting was developed. The plan overcame the traditional shortages such as judging by experience, non-quantitative estimate language and etc. The scheme could guide people to recognize the right requirements for the well-fitted bra, develop the designer’s abilities and product quality. The overall investigating results filled in the vacant theory of bra pattern design and bra fitting evaluation. And four national inventive patents had been applied for.