| Presently, garment production is focusing on high quality and technology, the advance of garment quality and value has been a trend in garment industry. Fusible interlining selected and fusible efficiency are important factors and not to be sneezed at, which can influence the garment quality besides fabric and technology. Fusible interlining is one of the important accessories of garment, and the new member of fusible interlining family---double-point fusible interlining has been introduced widely into the production of high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes. Specialists home and abroad have been heedful of the study on the manufacture of fusible interlining and the performance of fusing fabric with fusible interlining, and done lots of research work.At present, as high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes trend towards soft", "light" , "thin", "straight", "comfortable", light-worsted wool fabric has become the preferred material for the production of Western-style clothes and career clothes. The collect selection and use of fusible interlining are pivotal technics in course of production of high-level Western-style clothes and career clothes, and can improve the intrinsic performance of light-worsted wool fabric and increase garment's entire quality. Actually there is less research on compatibility of light-worsted wool fabric with fusible interlining till now. Accordingly, based on the demands iof cooperative project with Kainuo joint-stock company of Hailan group, we have investigated and tested in the corporation for three months. In this dissertation orthogonal experiments have been used to design fusible technics by conglutinating six common light-worsted wool fabrics with four double-point fusible interlinings which cadres are knitted. All together 9 experiments have been carried out. The 180 samples gained have been done tests, such as peel-back, dry cleaning, washing-up and FAST tests. In addition, six common light-worsted woolfabricswith three double-point fusible interlinings which cadres are woven have been conglutinated, the 18 samples gained have been done the same tests. The dissertation has gained the following research results:1 The optimum technics and best assemblies of experimental fabrics with fusible interlinings which cadres are knitted have been gained via analyzing test data by variance analysis;2 There are no obvious differences in the assemblies of light-worsted wool fabric with interlining which cadres are knitted or woven, the use characteristics of the two kinds of interlinings are decided by the actual structures of cadres;3 The best cohesive status via analyzing peeling types has been validated, four primary factors which influence the peeling strength have been found, they are glue diameter,weight, glue density and liquation index of interlining, and by means of principal component analysis, these four factors have been analyzed respectively.The dissertation is investigated FAST mechanical performance exploratively of light-worsted wool fabrics with fusible interlinins by large numbers of tests and analyse. The study results about fusible technics and compatibility of fusing fabrics with fusible interlinings offered the reference for the corporation. Part of the results have been adopted by Hailan group in actual production. |
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