Research On Controlling Clothing Size In The Process Of Garment Dyeing

Garment dyeing, also known as finished garment dyeing, is a kind of newtechnological process which is different from the traditional apparel processing.Garment dyeing can response to market efficiently and immediately since thetraditional garment way of garment processing has been changed. Meanwhile, It isextremely suitable for the fast fashion trend currently because kinds of fabric andwashing process can be combined to create new cloth with various style.Though the technology of garment dyeing was early in the history, and both athome and abroad, dyeing process are relatively mature, the product of garment dyeingis few in the market. The only reason can explain is the fabric shrinkage. Garmentdyeing products, especially knitted fabric, are poorer in dimensional stability, and itsdyeing shrinkage is difficult to control. The parameters is lacking in the productionprocess. There were many scholars and researchers who had proposed and studied theshrinkage problem of knitted dyed garment that made of cotton, but, with thedevelopment of the textile industry, new fabric will be produced, and all the studieswhich will not adapt to the new just can be used as reference. So, new research andstudy about shrinkage of the fabric, shrinkage of dyeing fabric, shrinkage of dyeinggarment will be carried on. The general rule of garment dyeing should be found sothat it can be applied into a broader range in textile and garment industry.Therefore, three types of knitted cotton fabric were chosen into experiment. Thereduction rate before and after dyeing, fabric structure, the composition and weight offabric yarn, etc., combined with processes and equipment, would be studied in theexperiment to find out the changing rules of garment size before and after dyeing. Thenew linear parameter model about scaling pattern of cotton knitwear in garmentdyeing was proposed, and the factors that cause the changing size before and afterdyeing were explored, in order to provide theoretical and practical guidance for thegarment dyeing production.After several experiments and tests, the following conclusions were reached:(1) The Shrinkage of the Fabric The shrinkage of the fabric is one of the main factors of the changing size in garment dyeing. Also including the process ofgarment production, and the time and temperature in dying process etc... While, thecomposition of the fabric yarns, the structure of the fabric itself, and the finishingprocess of fabric, are the important factors of the fabric shrinkage.Compared with ordinary mercerized plain weave cotton fabric, the shrinkage oflinen fabric imitated by pure cotton is bigger. And the shrinkage of the latter is1.3times larger than the former in warp, and2times in across warp. The contraction ofpique cotton fabric is larger in warp-wise, and the greater contraction in warp-wise,the larger elongation in across warp.The shrinkage in warp-wise of these types of experiment material is greater thanthe shrinkage in across warp. And with the increase of yarn, the gap is greaterbetween warp and across warp. The garment shrinkage of these fabrics is between theshrinkage of fabric and dyeing shrinkage. After dyeing, the weight of all kinds offabric has increased, and the bigger shrinkage, the more increased in weight.The shrinkage of the spandex linen fabric imitated by cotton is bigger than theordinary linen fabric, and the smaller yarn count, the more obvious. The gap betweenthe two in warp-wise reaches to3.8%and6.5%in across warp. The finer the yarn, thegap between the two becomes smaller.(2) Liner Regression Model Through the software SPSS, the liner regressionmodel is built. The independent variable include shrinkage of the fabric X1, shrinkageof the fabric in dyeing X2, shrinkage of garment in dyeing X3, and shrinkage ofadding pattern is dependent variable Y.So the equation of liner regression about linen fabric imitated by cotton（spandexlinen fabric imitated by cotton is included）in warp-wise is y纵=12.67+0.15x1纵-0.01x2纵+0.25x3纵，and in across warp is y横=1.67-0.67x1横+0.05x2横-0.22x3横.The equation of the pique cotton fabric in warp-wise is y纵=3.11+0.74x1纵-0.97x2纵-0.24x3纵，and in across warp is y横=0.53+0.34x1横-0.82x2横-0.09x3横.(3) The Pattern Grading Two methods of how to add shrinkage to gradingpattern is proposed in the paper. The one is according to the average shrinkage to addup, and the other one is according to the formula L0/(1-X)=L to add up. Comparingthe two methods, it is found that the clothing length is inequality between the methodone and the method two, and the actual shrinkage is not equal too. The length gap isbetween0.02cm and0.33cm. Size L is nearly equal, but the maximum size and theminimum size all have bigger difference. According to the fist method, the actual shrinkage is changing with the clothing length, the shorter, and the bigger.