Study On Efficacy Assessment Of Anti-aging Cosmetics

In this study, vivo and vitro experiments were conducted to study the assessment of the efficacy of anti-aging cosmetics, experiments are divided into three parts:oil materials, humectants, active ingredients. The transdermal Penetration of humectants has been also studied. The abstract is as follows:1Comparison of mixed vagetable oil and white oil’s anti-aging efficacy on skin: Subjects of short-term group were let to use mixed vegetable oil cream and white oil cream on the inside of the forearm skin respectively, and the subjects of long-term group were let to use mixed vegetable oil cream and white oil cream on the face every day in30days. The change of skin hydration, transepidermal water loss(TEWL), skin elasticity, skin fine lines and friction has been studied every. Results showed, vegetable oil can effectively improve skin hydration and reduce TEWL either in short-term and long-term, vegetable oil had good effect on improving skin elasticity and reduce wrinkle area, length and depth by using in long term. White oil can also improve skin hydration and reduce TEWL either in short-term and long-term in some extent, and in long-term, it had some effect on reduce skin depth, but those effects were less than vegetable oil. After using in6hours, vegetable oil could reduce and white oil could increase skin friction, while if using in long-term the two oil can both increase skin friction. In all, vegetable oil had better effect than white oil on skin caring and skin anti-aging.2Comparison of hyaluronic acid, glycerin and pro-vitamin B5’s anti-aging efficacy on skin:The comprehensive influences of hyaluronic acid, glycerin and pro-vitamin B5on skin was studied in short term (6hours) and long term (30days), which is displayed as skin hydration, transepidermal water loss(TEWL), skin elasticity, skin fine lines and friction. Results showed that glycerin significantly increased skin hydration after using in6hours, while hyaluronic acid obviously improved skin hydration when using in long term(30d); glycerin effectively decreased TEWL in short term, while hyaluronic acid significantly decreased TEWL in long term; pro-vitamin B5shows its good property of enhancing skin elasticity in long term; hyaluronic acid is similar to glycerin in decreasing skin fine lines in long term, hyaluronic acid increased skin friction the most in long term which is similar to its effect on skin hydration, demonstrated skin friction more influenced by skin hydration. In conclusion, humectants could produce effects on skin hydration, TEWL, skin elasticity, fine lines and friction, so as to play a comprehensive skin care effect.3Study of Transdermal Penetration of Hyaluronic acid, Glycerin and Pro-vitamin B5: The object is to study transdermal penetration efficacy of Hyaluronic acid(HA), Glycerin and Pro-vitamin B5in gel, so as to provide a reference for the using of humectants in cosmetics formulation. Determinating the content of HA by UV spectrophotometer, determinating the content of Glycerin by Gas chromatography, determinating the content of Pro-vitamin B5by high performance liquid chromatography, using BALB/cASlac-nu skin as permeable membranes, the permeation quantity and permeation rate of HA, Glycerin and Pro-vitamin B5were studied, the permeating equation was built. Results showed the permeation quantity (mg/cm2)of HA is higher than Glycerin and Pro-vitamin B5during the0.5-8hours of permeating, the order of the permeation quantity is HA> Glycerin≈Pro-vitamin B5. The permeation rate(mmoL/cm2-h) were0.0000807,0.000568,0.000380respectively. Conclusion The order of the permeation rate(mmoL/cm2·h) of three humectnts is:HA<Pro-vitamin B5<Glycerin.4Comparison of Vitamin E, collagen peptide and DL-malic acid’s anti-aging efficacy on skin:Vitamin E, collagen peptide, DL-malic acid were made into gel products respectively, a blank gel was also made for comparing, four group of subjects were let to use these four gel products respectively. The change of skin L value, ITA value, melanin value, erythema value, hydration, transepidermal water loss(TEWL), skin elasticity, skin greasiness, wrinkles has been studied when continuous using in1w,2w,3w,4w,5w. Results showed, collagen peptide could effectively improve skin L value, ITA value and reduce TEWL, erythema value, the area of skin fine lines in some extent; vitamin E had good effect on increasing skin hydration, skin elasticity and skin greasiness, and could reduce melanin value, total wrinkle area, average wrinkle length and average wrinkle depth effectively. DL-malic acid could effectively reduce skin greasiness, average wrinkle length, average wrinkle depth and increase skin hydration, skin elasticity. In all, the three all had some effects on skin caring and skin anti-aging, vitamin E is good to improve skin color, hydration, elasticity, wrinkles and increase skin greasiness; collagen peptide is good to improve skin color and repair the skin barrier; DL-malic acid is good to improve skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle and reduce skin greasiness.