Research And Development, Tussah Silk Seamless Underwear Knitting Products

China is the largest producer of seamless knitting garment. At first, most of these garments are exported, but with the increasing of Chinese people's consumption capabilities and the change of cultural awareness, they have become selling well in domestic market. As the substitute for traditional underwear, seamless underwear is the embodiment of comfort, perfect feeling, fashion, varieties. Seamless technique possesses such good features as low cost, high efficiency and quick-response production. Tussah silk is Chinese exceptionally natural resource. It possesses elegant and soft light, good hygroscopicity, air permeability and mechanical property, and the products have good health function. Tussah silk seamless underwear combines traditional resource-tussah silk with high and new knitting technique-seamless technique, which can take full advantage of the former two and accord with the trend of today's costume. In this paper, we researched the structure and performance of tussah silk, the design parameter of the fabric structure, the softening finish technology, the fabric's comfort and durability, the product design and trial-knitting.The chemistry and the structure of the fiber have direct effect on knitting technique and product properties. On the basis of carefully studying the physical and chemical structure of tussah silk, several kinds of seamless underwear fabrics have been developed with seamless knitting machine. These fabrics are mainly classified into three kinds: pure tussah silk fabrics, tussah silk and nylon interknitted fabrics, tussah silk and nylon/spandex core-spun yarn interknitted fabrics. Through designing and program debugging again and again, finally some scientific and reasonable knitting technique parameters were offered.In the processing of the finishing, amino-modified silicone softeners were used in the softening finish technology. And then the method of orthogonal trial and fuzzy mathematics comprehensive evaluation were used to optimize the softening finish technology. Finally the best softening finish technology was got. This method eliminated the effect of the human factors, which made the evaluated results more objective and accurate.Moreover, the comfort and durability of the tussah silk seamless underwear fabrics were tested and analyzed, according to the wearing properties requires of knitting underwear. And all properties of the tussah silk seamless underwear fabrics that we developed were comprehensively evaluated. Some kinds of tussah silk seamless underwear were designed and knitted, on the basis of fabrics design and properties testing, according to the characteristics of tussah silk and the machine, considering the demands of the market. At the end of this paper, further research and development direction of tussah silk seamless underwear was put forward.