A Study On The Females’s Torso Shape Of Dressing Underwears

Along with the people’s living stangards improved, the consumers have higher demands for garments which were not only looks good, wears comfortable but also need to fit the body well. When make the patterns for outer garments, we need to consider the clothes that were dressed under the outer garments. According to the the layer that the clothes dressed, the clothes can be devived into underwears and outer garments. The ease of the garments such as jackts and coats are often decideded by experience when made the patterns by using drawing structures method. But the theory of how much and where the ease should be put wasn’t very much. In moden garment industry, it is meaningful to determine the garments’style and patterns based on having a good understanding of the human’s body shape. Therefore, researching the torso’s shape after wearing a certain underwears is significant.This research was dedicated to study the females’torso shape of dressed different layers and thickness of underwears. Based on the above objectives, the researcher outlined the following proposal:(1)18～25years old females were selected as the subjects in this paper. According to the people’s actual wears in defferent seasons,4underwears included1undershirt and3sweaters of defferent thickness were selected as the garments for experiment. The4underwears can be matched into4wearring manners:wearing undershirt only and wearing undershirt adding one sweater above. The female’s torsos were measured in five defferent dresses layers.37measurements which were related to torso were measured by Martin instrument and [TC]2Non-contact3D body scanners. By analyzing the data of the torso, we found that the defferent body type of female whose bust-full were the same had the same size increasing on the torsos except the data of waist when wearing the same underwears. When dressed underwears, the back sizes of human’s increased were larger than the front human torso’s sizes. The defference between the back length of torso and the front length was decreased as wearing underwears. The more thick of the underwears were the less the defference was. When the thick of the underwear was7.57mm, the back lengrh was0.1cm smaller than the front length.(2) After measuring the angle that is the tangent line of the sagittal which through the BP point of Dong-hua revision160/84A nude mannequin, we blocked the torso into19pieces according to the angles. It was the innovation point of the research that studying the relationship between the growth of the body surface after wearing underwears and the angular dimension of the body. And then marked the figure of every pieces in the case of unwearring underwears and wearing underwears. Use the Fuyi CAD to draft the pieces, superposing the pieces with certain points. The block diagram showed that the length of the longitudinal was closely related to the body’s angular dimension. The smaller of the body’s tangent line’s angle referenced to the horizontal line was, the larger of the length of the body surface was. And when the angle was close to90degree, the growth of the length was0cm. Every pieces’s length were increased horizontally, among these pieces, the side ones had a larger increase than the other ones.(3) According to the anthropometry data and people’s dressing in winter, choosed the ease which was caused by the thickest underwears that was one undershirt and thickest sweater to add on the Dong-hua revision160/84A nude mannequin. Firstly, selected the160/84A type body’s data of unweared and wearing the thickest underwears, and obtained the three dimensional spots. Analysising the data of the two dresses calculated the ease which was caused after wearing underwears. Then looked through the reference, and obtained the relatede data of the Dong-hua revision160/84A nude mannequin. Finally, put the ease on the Dong-hua revision160/84A nude mannequin in order to form a model with certain ease. As for the three dimensional modle’s, there was4.2cm ease in the bust,5.1cm in the waist, and4cm in the hip.(4) Made the mannequins with ease based on the3D models. The mannequin was tested by measuring and3D body scanning. The results showed that the mannequin was accurate and practical for its size and shape. And then, made a basic block for bodice which can give advice for coats’pattern design.