Research And Product Development On The Light-proofness Of Jacquard Decorative Fabrics With Double-layer Construction

Decorative fabrics are an effective approach to furnish the inner space and distinguish theatmosphere of interior art. Furthermore, the specific function and pattern give a feeling ofelegance and warmth, and establish an interior atmosphere of peacefulness and harmony. Withthe development of the living standard in recent years, the consumer psychology has beenchanging continually. All kinds of personalized, creative, intelligentized and functionalizedtextiles are generally becoming the main choices of consumers. As the types of items growing,it is necessary to improve the techniques and create new materials for decorative drapery fabricsin order to strength the light-proofness. However, the light-proof drapery fabrics on the marketmainly apply production processes which are environment-contaminating andenergy-consuming, such as embossing, printing, coating, etc. Although normal jacquard fabricsenable to present different kinds of patterns on surface, the performance of ligh-proofness isunsatisfied. Therefore, it is meaningful to research and develop the decorative drapery fabricswith features of beauty, light-proofness and environment protection. Meanwhile, it iscompetitive in the market.With the analysis on the factors of light-proof effects of the decorative fabrics, thisdissertation provides the theoretical basis for developing new highly light-proof decorativedrapery fabrics. Based on the weaving rationale of jet-weaving technology of electronic dobbyjacquard, five series (35pieces) of double-layer fabrics are designed from woven construction,thread count, weft arrangement ratio and materials, and tested on related performance includinglight-proofness and drapability. Regarding the influence to light-proofness, this researchexplores the organization cycle numbers (plain, twill, satin), binding points distribution,backing organization based on the analysis of different woven constructions; the weft density ofdouble-layer construction and weft (black) arrangement ratio through arrangement of densityand ratios; and the materials from the analysis of FDY and DTY as weft and warp materials.Three types of fabrics (14pieces) are selected to examine the drapability. This paper providesthe technical support for developing the highly light-proof decorative fabrics with comprehensive performance analysis. It concludes as follows.(1) The application of new electronic dobby jacquard loom with water-jet, not onlyexpands the pattern width of the fabrics and increases the warp density, but also lowers theproduction cost and enhances the competitiveness in the market. It is beneficial to the subject interms of the device support.(2) With the same techniques and same conditions of weft and warp density, differentorganization cycle numbers have different effects to light-proofness of double-layerconstruction fabrics. As the numbers increasing, the binding points on unit area are decreased,the space between yarns is reduced, and the light-proofness is strengthened. Regarding thefabrics with same organization cycle numbers, the effects of light-proofness can be arranged as,plain weave <twill weave <satin weave.(3) With certain fabric density and controlled floats, there is an exponential relationbetween organization cycle numbers and average light-proof rate. As the numbers increasing, itpresents a positive correlation, and when the number reaches a fixed value, the effects arebasically consistent.(4) With the same techniques and same conditions of double-layer weave, the effects oflight-proofness are also basically consistent as the binding points on unit area increasing, whichmeans the design of binding points has limited influence on improving the light-proofness andthe binding points should be evenly distributed to assure the flatness of two layers. Besides, thelooser the backing weave is, the better the light-proofness of fabrics will be. Therefore, satinweave with relatively loose construction should be employed to develop highly light-proofdecorative fabrics.(5) When the warp density is140/cm, the light-proofness improves dramatically with theincreasing weft density and arrangement ratio. And when the weft density is96/cm, the fabricsare99.9%light-proof, reaching the completely light-proof, albeit relatively stiff on touch.Given the real production and application, the weft density of the highly light-proof decorativefabrics can be72/cm and weft arrangement ratio2(black):1:1.(6) In the visible light zone with the same technical parameter, the light-proofness ofdouble-layer construction fabrics: FDY silk fabrics> DTY silk fabrics, and FDY silk has betterperformance than DTY silk. (7) When the warp density is140/cm, the material of weft and weft density have smallimpact to the drapability of fabrics. With the floats under effective control, the drapabilitybecomes better when the organization cycle number increases. In the production development,weave with higher organization cycle number can be selected according to the requiredmaterials and weft density.This dissertation combines all results of the fabric performance tests. It designs the highlylight-proof drapery fabrics with warp140/cm, weft72/cm, picking ratio2:1:1and1:1, and FDYsilk as weft material. Two series (6styles) of fabrics have been developed with lustrous surface,soft texture, and excellent light-proofness, which are reputable among customers.