Research And Development Of Hismer Fiber Knitted Fabric

Hismer fiber is a kind of natural functional fibers chemically named purechitosan fiber, being made of the Deep-sea snow crab shells of Alaska through wetspinning based on the good filamentation performance of chitosan solution.Antibacterial is a common property of chitosan and it grows with the increase of thedegree of deacetylation. Generally speaking, Chitin with more than55percentN-acetyl off can be called chitosan, while the degree of deacetylation of chitosan usedto made hismer fiber could be95percent or more, thus making its antibacterialproperty extremely good. Besides, it also has many other good properties, likepermeability, hygroscopic and moisture retention, mildew resistance, relieving sweatyto keep clean, stimulating the regrowth of skin.The theoretical significance of the project is to make hismer fiber more widelyused in knitting field, thus the products can embody the advantages of hismer fiber:environmental friendly, comfortable and healthy.The linear density of the yarn used in this project is28.1tex, consisting of10percent hismer fiber,12percent modal and78percent cotton, made by ShandongHuaxing Textile Group. Firstly, we systematically researched and analyzed themorphology and mechanical properties of hismer fiber. Then the yarn evenness, twist,moisture content, acid and alkali resistance, heat resistance were tested.Based on the testing result of hismer fiber and properties of the yarns, wedesigned the fabric structure and the knitting process. Six different samples wereknitted on computerized automatic flat knitting machine-STOLL CMS530HP. Thebasic performance of the six samples were tested afterwards, including grammage,thickness, fabric density and water shrinkage.The methode of alkali-hydrogen peroxide one bath scouring was precessed onthe fabric samples to ensure the dyeing could be proceed smoothly. Based on threeevaluation indicators: whiteness, the bursting strength and handle, using hydrogenperoxide (30percent) as the bleaching agent, we optimized the scouring andbleaching process through single factor analytic method and orthogonal analytic method, finally defined the optimal one: liquor ratio1:25, dosage of hydrogenperoxide6g/L, dosage of sodium hydroxide2g/L, dosage of refining agent2g/L,dosage of penetrating agent JFC3g/L, bleaching temperature90℃, bleaching time60min, sodium sulfite0.5g/L, sodium silicate1g/L. After scouring and bleaching, thehygroscopicity of fabrics had greatly improved, and the whiteness also increased a lot,while the strength had shown a slight decrease.Since blended hismer fiber yarns used in the project is combined with cellulosefiber and protein fiber, and taken factors in all aspects into account, a kind of one-bathtwo-step process with reactive dye was finally determined. The dye uptake rate andK/S value were chosen as the evaluation indexes, analyzing the dosage of sodiumcarbonate and sodium sulfate, the fixing temperature and time through the singlefactor method, finally defined the optimal dyeing process with orthogonal analyticmethod: reactive Red KD-8B2percent, sodium sulfate50g/L, dyeing temperature60℃, dyeing time35min; the fixation process: sodium carbonate20g/L, fixingtemperature90℃, fixing time70min; soaping process: soaping agent0.5g/L, soapingtemperature90℃, soaping time15min.Wearing performance were carried out on the six samles after finishing process,specific tests including: air permeability, moisture permeability, heat preservation,hygroscopicity, rigidity and flexibility, the bursting strength, drapability, pilling andantibacterial property. The results showed that the antibacterial property of fabric withhismer fiber met the standard of antibacterial care clothing, what’s more, otherproperties also satisfied the wearability requirements of knitted fabrics, proving thatknitted hismer fabric was suitable for developing fabrics with health function, whichmakes its developing prospects, economic value and social benefits very good.Fuzzy-integrative evaluation was used to assess the wearability of those knittedhismer fabrics, and it can be seen from the results that the best structure to developundergarments with hismer fiber is weft plain stitch.