| Fabric stiffness handle was one of fabric handle, which influences the properties of coat on stiffness, anti-crease and shape preservation, the properties of underwear on personal nature, softness and drape characteristics, the properties of decorative fabric on attractive appearance and the properties of industrial textiles on enhancement and durability and so on. The machine to represent fabric stiffness handle was by measuring the bending properties of fabric such as cant method, circle method, KES-FB system and FAST-2bending instrument and so on at home and abroad, but these were expressions of single property through single test and they can not characterise the fabric stiffness handle comprehensively.The paper used the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabric and yarn (CHES-FY) which based in the principle of one measure using the same system by the way of getting the fabric pull force-displacement curve through one pull out. Extracting the typical inltex in the bend stage of fabric, such as left slope, right slope, peak X, peak Y, the left area, the right area and width from the curve to characterize the fabric stiffness handle comprehensively. This paper let the four main set parameter be as the major parameter of CHES-FY system and chose four levels of each factor to make sixteen groups orthogonal test. The results showed that it can get the optimized parameters of CHES-FY for all kinds of fabrics which was the distance of two chuck of CHES-FY system was55millimeter, the distance of chuck to pressure needle was50millimeter, the diameter of pressure needle was2millimeter and the distance of the two pressure needle was5millimeter.Making correlation analysis of average bending stiffness and characteristic index extracted from the curve of the experiments under the optimized parameters test. Using the multiple linear regression method by statistical software SPSS and it can get the regression equation of the average bending stiffness and the typical character index (left slope, peak Y and the right area) for fabric stiffness handle which is The average bending stiffness=-0.716+2.318x1(left slope)-0.968x2 (peak Y)+0.122x3(the right area). It was verified that the regression equation meet the hypothesis of linear and homogeneity of variance and also fitting effect was good.The NO.1-24fabric, which were chosen from fifty fabrics, was tested on the properties of crease resilience, drapability and thickness, then making correlate analysis together with the fabric’s stiff style index, which collected under the best parameter conditions. The results showed that the fabric’s stiff style had small correlation with the fabric wrinkle resistance, but big correlation with the fabric static drape and certain correlation with the thickness.The50fabrics’stiff style were analysed and classified based on the inspectors’ subjective analysis and the software’s objective analysis, which ordered according to the scores of grade and rank, then using statistics W and F inspection and draw the conclusion that the coherence of artificial feel inspection is good. The sample was analysed objectively based on the index, collected under the best parameter conditions, using SPSS software’s fast sample k-means clustering method. Comparing the results of subject and object cluster analysis, they had good consistency for fabric stiffness handle cluster. |
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