Study On The Traditional Grass Cloth And Its Modern Production Process

Modern production process is widely used in textile field, while the weaving process of traditional grass cloth is still at the stage of using the old traditional looms. Modern producing mode is transforming into automation and intelligence, therefore using the traditional looms is far from the trend of the development of social production. The old traditional loom is not only operated by hands but also has low efficiency and high cost. Therefore, the urgent problem to be solved in grass cloth weaving industry is how to produce high-quality and low-cost grass cloth retaining traditional styles through modern shuttleless looms and providing new technology and methods for grass cloth production.This paper studies on producing grass cloth with traditional styles by experimenting on modern production line with specialized handed yarn-spinning and improved yarn properties. It mainly includes the following two parts:1. normalize handed yarn-spinning process of traditional and half degummed ramie yarn and thread;2.optimize the manufacturing process of producing grass cloth with traditional styles through modern technology in order to promote it on the production line.Choose the suitable warp and weft and then weave on the semi-automatic pneumatic sample machine and rapier loom respectively. Due to the characteristics of handed yarn-spinning, there needs to adjust the related process parameters in weaving so that we can produce grass cloth with traditional styles. The typical characteristic of grass cloth is reflected by the twisting joints of handed yarn-spinning, so there remains the use of traditional handed yarn-spinning during the experiments and improve yarns’properties by twisting them. In order to optimize production process and remain distinctive styles of traditional grass cloth, the assumption that producing traditional grass cloth by using modern technology is presented and its corresponding research schemes are also designed. The research schemes are as follows:(1) because the quality of craft yarns is under the human control and methods of joining and twisting can influence end breakage rate, which is unfavorable for weaving, so the paper are mainly centered on improving the method of joining yarns and how to apply standard operation rules in weaving steps;(2) more attention should be paid on yarns’ thinner part and this part is removed by directly screening in the process of handed yarn-spinning;(3) the selective ranges of weft yarns are wide, so there is no need to consider the problems of weft yarns;(4)the main purpose of this research is to make sure whether modern technology can weave grass cloth with traditional styles, so both size composition and sizing process with better effect are selected in the existing achievements of production techniques to reduce the influence of sizing on weaving. From this point of view, other problems associated with sizing are not taken into account. The main conclusion are as follows:(1) Warp and weft yarns are used with the original yarns of grass cloth. After weft yarns are twisting adequately, they can be woven on the modern pneumatic machines. On the one hand, it can free human labor; and on the other hand, the selective ranges of weft yams are so wide that it can show grass cloth with different styles.(2)Warp yarns are from ramie produced in modern factories, while weft yarns are from traditional handed spinning which can be produced on production line. By this way, grass cloth with traditional styles can be produced. It can not only increase production efficiency but also keep grass cloth’s styles maximally. Shaft looms have such advantages as working with high speed and efficiency, and producing the cloth with wide-broad and less flawlessness. At the same time, its disadvantage is that it needs high requirements for thinness of yarns, breaking strength and tensile elongation at break. In current conditions, as for weft yarns which are made by handed yam-spinning, they are only woven with roving that has more than moderate fineness.(3)If weft and warp yarns are from ramie produced by machines in modern factories, it is smooth to adopt modern manufacturing technology, but the fabrics are not close to grass cloth styles. Modern yarns don’t have handed joints that traditional yarns have. Meanwhile, modern yarns also don’t have the characteristics of intermittent joints. Above all, it’s difficult to show the features of traditional grass cloth.(4)In the research, new breakthrough of production process is achieved by producing traditional grass cloth with150cm broadcloth through rapier looms. At the same time, weaving grass cloth with wide broad on the rapier-loom production line has been realized. The grass cloth made by this way has straight edge, stable width, flat and smooth surface and the efficiency of this production is very high.