Study On The Origin Of Grass Cloth And Its Weaving Skill And Fabric Art

Grass Cloth has the reputation of ancient textile “living fossil”,which is composed of half degummed ramie fiber by hand weaving,because of its wear breathable perspiration and cool-pleasant in summer,it is called “Grass Cloth”.The source of Grass Cloth with “commoner” was the main civilian clothing,Grass Cloth weaving skills is one of Chinese ancient textile civilization witness.The dominate role of Bast Fiber spinning position has been gradually replaced by cotton during the Ming and Qing Dynasties,Grass Cloth was suitable for summer,it often exist as a local product.With the development of textile technology and the change of people's way of life,as a Chinese nation with a long history of handmade textiles,it has begun to fade out of the public view.In 2008,Jiangxi Wanzai and Chongqing Rongchang's Grass Cloth weaving techniques were listed in the national intangible cultural heritage protection catalogue.Academic researched on Grass Cloth as the main subject for summarized two aspects.On the one hand,from the perspective of social history and economic history,which researched Grass Cloth economic and cultural of value;On the other hand,from the perspective of intangible cultural heritage protection and inheritance,which launched field investigation in Grass Cloth weaving skills,developed Grass Cloth derivatives in the way of art design.However,starting from the perspective of Bast Fiber crops to trace its source textile and clothing culture of Grass Cloth;Starting from the perspective ancient textile technology to mining the ancient Bast Fiber textile technology;Starting from the positioning of context and the reduction of weaving technique about Grass Cloth,promote its extension design,and pay equal attention on the protective and development.All of above have not been carried out.In addition,the field investigation of Grass Cloth weaving skills can not be ignored folk private workshop and individual weavers in Fenyi Jiangxi,which retain the original ecological Grass Cloth weaving skills;The design and development of Grass Cloth can not be ignored Xinyu Grass Cloth embroidery in Jiangxi,it apply a case of innovation.Based on this,the paper make a system study on the origin of Grass Cloth and its weaving skill and fabric art.Traced Grass Cloth long history context and restore the core of GrassCloth weaving process,promote the classical aesthetics and traditional skills of Grass Cloth,and reappear in the contemporary life objects by the way of cloth art extension design.In this way,carry forward Ma textile and its clothing of traditional culture,dig out the core of traditional technology,strive for the purpose of creative transformation and innovative development.This paper are divided into three parts about the main research contents,first part,the trace back Grass Cloth,second part,the process of mining for Grass Cloth,last part,the extension of Grass Cloth fabric art.First part,the trace back Grass Cloth.Checked the documents of ancient Chinese biography,newspaper and county annals,and combining the textiles and clothing displayed in the museum,with “double certificate” to trace the origin of Grass Cloth.Starting from the meaning of a word of “Grass Cloth”,according to the context and background of the source,to analysis the origin of “Grass Cloth”.The word clearly refers to the manual ramie cloth in the Qing Dynasty,which have the main related with Bast fiber spinning status decreased and suitable for summer wearing of characteristics;Examined China ancient Bast Fiber crops of varieties and distribution,to trace its spinning and costume culture,to untangle its context and history.Grass Cloth use ramie for the main raw material,which have direct relationship with its textile properties.Bast Fibre textile is closely related to people's life in the men tilling and women weaving of social,Ji Ma and weaving are a very complicated matter,“into” and “lost”of Ji Ma and weaving as well as its important significance for individuals and the whole agricultural society.Ma cloth are graded according to fine cloth in ancient,rough cloth as the main clothing of common people,but the aristocracy enjoyed fine Bast Fibre fabrics.Bast Fibre cloth refers to the generation of civilians by the fabric performance and value and etiquette service of decision;Summarized situation about the main origin of modern Grass Cloth,analysis the reasons for the rise and fall of Grass Cloth.The main origin in Wanzai Jiangxi,Rong-Long Sichuan and Liuyang Hunan are the most of famous,all of places have common characteristics,deep textile history,advantageous geographical and stable external environment.The rise and fall of direct driving force for modern Grass Cloth industry is imported to Korean.which has a direct relate with Japanese aggression.Second part,the process of mining for Grass cloth.Through literature,pictures,physical way,studied technology and evolution of ancient Bast Fiber textile.Through Grass Cloth of component ramie fiber degumming technology and phenomenon of studied,it concluded that people began to have aware of ramie fiber degumming inpre-Qin,forming a complete degumming process in the Song Dynasty,there was no difference between the degumming process with modern Grass Cloth weaving.Based on the spinning wheel swirl pattern of studied,it concluded that our ancestors began to know how to control the yarn twist direction and twist evenness,through observing the spinning wheel of spiral movement regular.Bast Fiber spinning and weaving without absorbed the most advanced textile tools,because of the decline in the status of Bast Fiber textile and the main Bast Fiber fabric with plain weave.Bast Fiber spinning machine has experienced the development process from hand to foot,from single spindle to multiple spindle.But ramie yarn of modern Grass Cloth is mainly made of“flat yarn” by handmade,it is only used to Ma spinning wheel when the whole yarn is twisting,so the spinning wheel began to fade away.The main loom of modern Grass Cloth weaving is the Grass Cloth waist loom,which is improved on the basis of the waist loom for used an Zhuangshou in beating weft in the Ming Dynasty.Although its weaving efficiency is less than homespun loom,and weavers are easy to fall waist disease,but it is more suitable for weaving fine Grass Cloth,so that become a special loom of Grass Cloth.When the type loom appeared,which laid the foundation for the emergence of Bast Fiber textile auxiliary tool shuttle and reed,which used for improve the efficiency and quality of Grass Cloth weaving;In-depth Grass Cloth weaving techniques intangible cultural heritage site to carried out fieldwork,interviewed inheritor of intangible cultural heritage and local people,with the oral history of science technology and cultural anthropology,reveal Grass Cloth weaving skills of intangible cultural heritage.Visited the planting land of ramie in-depth Liuyang Hunan,visited Jiangxi Grass Cloth weaving private factory and folk artists,and Rongchang Grass Cloth weaving skills exhibits,through field investigation for collect the system of information,to record Grass Cloth weaving skills completely.Summed up Grass Cloth of printing and dyeing technology,and traced its history.the origin of stained stone can be traced back to the ancient mineral pigments,used to mainly paint and dip of method,because of stained fabric low color fastness,it replaced by natural dyeing at later.Because ramie fiber dyeing difficulties,it used mainly for civilian clothing,it keep natural color fiber for the clothing,such as need vegetable dyes dyeing blue and black color system mainly.Grass Cloth printing process used Blue Print Flowers,with blue flowers on a white background or just the opposite.Last part,the extension of Grass Cloth fabric art.The base of study and experiment on the from the perspective of technology,revealed the production process and key points of Grass Cloth embroidery,painting and any other derivatives.Focuses onstudied Grass Cloth embroidery,its charm lies in giving full play to texture and color of material embroidery,and the unique needling method suitable for embroidering.Through the experimented,the paper introduce the steps and the attention of to copperplate transfer Grass Cloth printing;Collected and organized the case of Grass Cloth in the design,then expand its fashion field.Researched on characteristics of Grass Cloth material,in order to achieve the goal of product design,to foster strengths and circumvent weakness in material utilization;At last,from the point of view of handicraft value,this paper discussed the protection strategy of Grass Cloth and its derivatives.Protecting of productivity driven by commercial interests,it is hard to control under the drive of commercial profits,the failure of protection and development will result in productive damage;Through culture and spirit of the manual translated into the cultural connotation about Grass Cloth extension of design,make Grass Cloth weaving techniques under the catalog of intangible cultural heritage to both technical and cultural protecting,it is the core of productive protection of intangible cultural heritage,also.The overall framework of research.Through ancient Bast Fiber weaving skills of history,culture and process,with the cultural ecology of modern Grass Cloth,and the intangible cultural heritage under Grass cloth weaving skills of comprehensive study,restore complete of Grass Cloth process and history,and start from the historical culture and ecological process of Grass Cloth for its fabric art extending design.This forms ecological chain of the history,weaving and cultural and creative history about Grass Cloth,history culture are the premium space for the creative culture products of Grass Cloth,hand-weaving techniques are the prerequisite for the charm of Grass Cloth.Wenchuang is the terminal for the protection of Grass Cloth production.Based on the above research,some conclusions can be made.The source of Grass Cloth can be traced back at least to use of Bast Fiber crops in neolithic,and the textile and its clothing had played an important role in people's life.The context evolution of Grass Cloth is produced by many factors of effect,among them,both textile technology developed and new textile raw materials appeared are dominant forces to impact the change of status as apparel fabrics.The growth of Grass Cloth have a great relation with South Korean markets in modern times.According with Grass Cloth exports to Japan and South Korea mainly since 80 s twentieth Century,Japan and South Korea market demand which is a close relationship with scattered in folk weaving artist of survival.These are still preserved Rongchang Chongqing,Liuyang Hunan and Wanzai Jiangxi of Grass Cloth weaving skills,which are only a part of the Bast Fiber weaving skills.Theinfiltration of modern textile technology has changed the traditional weaving techniques,Grass Cloth weaving skills mining should be back to the background of ancient textile technology.In the design and development of the fabric art extension of Grass Cloth for graft with local regional culture resources,there are many bright spots in the development of the communion creation products,such as Xinyu Grass Cloth embroidery,Yichun Grass Cloth prints,Rongchang Grass Cloth fan.The development of summer cloth clothing is in the ascendant,there is a large space for the application of summer cloth in family soft decoration,the achievements of craft design of Grass Cloth are worth affirming.Grass Cloth returns to contemporary life,its product development should adhere to the core skills of traditional manual,and change its external form to develop objects with traditional craft aesthetics in the real sense.Ancient Bast fiber spinning known as “the source of national spinning and the ancestor of ten thousand years” in ancient times,but its related technical and historical records are very few.in addition,Bast Fiber fabric unearthed are less,which also bring some difficulties for study.The lack of historical documents and materials collection,and some research materials exist deficient in-depth examination lead to lack of strength in the proof of evidence,expect to be improved in the follow-up study.