| As the expansion of the scale of polyester fiber, the competitiveness of chemical fiber factory in quality and cost is increasingly intense. At present, chemical fiber factories are in the survival of the fittest, those being lack of advanced equipment, technology and products are gradually being eliminated, so these factories must do something like introducing advanced equipment and technology, optimizing the production process, improving product quality to enhance their competitiveness. The production mode “diversification, low investment, low cost,high technology, high quality and high benefit” has become the inevitable development tendency of chemical fiber factories. In addition, the existing polyester DTY interlaced yarns used for luggage fabrics are lack of these performance like soft, fluffy and fullness, etc.At this point, the polyester POY yarns are used as raw materials, the process parameters who affect on the objective performance are used as factors, and the orthogonal test and range analysis are used as methods in this topic to prepare three kinds of new polyester DTY interlaced yarns such as the fiber in low boiling water shrinkage, the fiber in high crimp shrinkage, and the hollow polyester DTY interlaced yarn. Then the topic put forward the optimal preparation process according to the results of orthogonal test, characteristics of raw materials, and actual situation. At last, these three kinds of products and common products with specifications are used as warp materials, the polyester DTY yarns used as weft materials in this research, and adopting a reasonable weaving process to weave the luggage fabrics used for experiment. Then the research tests the basic performance, mechanical property and fabric style of these fabrics,and analyzes the data of these properties. The following conclusions can be drawn.(1) The polyester POY yarns are used as raw materials, the orthogonal experiment design is used as method, draw ratio, deformation temperature, the second over-feed ratio and interlaced pressure are used as factors, and the boiling water shrinkage is used as evaluation indexes in this topic, using the range analysis to put forward the optimal preparation process of polyester DTYinterlaced yarns in low boiling water shrinkage according to the results of orthogonal test,characteristics of raw materials, and actual situation. The process is: draft ratio is 1.655,deformation temperature is 210 ℃, the second over-feed ratio is 5.16%, and the interlaced pressure is 0.21 MPa. The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester DTY interlaced yarns in this process is 3.04%;(2) The polyester POY yarns are used as raw materials, the orthogonal experiment design is used as method, draw ratio, deformation temperature, heat-setting temperature and the second over-feed ratio are used as factors, and the crimp shrinkage is used as evaluation indexes in this topic, using the range analysis to put forward the optimal preparation process of polyester DTY interlaced yarns in high crimp shrinkage according to the results of orthogonal test,characteristics of raw materials, and actual situation.The process is: draft ratio is 1.765,deformation temperature is 208℃, heat-setting temperature is 140℃, and the second over-feed ratio is 5.21%. The crimp shrinkage of the polyester DTY interlaced yarns in this process is38.63%;(3) The hollow polyester POY yarns whose hollowness is 15% are used as raw materials,the orthogonal experiment design is used as method, machining speed, draw ratio, deformation temperature, and D/Y ratio are used as factors, the hollowness and breaking strength are used as evaluation indexes in this topic, using the range analysis to put forward the optimal preparation process of polyester DTY interlaced yarns in large hollowness and strength according to the results of orthogonal test, characteristics of raw materials, and actual situation. The process is:machining speed is 550 m/min-1, draw ratio is 1.732, deformation temperature is 180℃, and the D/Y ratio is 1.60. When produced in the process, the hollowness of the fibers is 7.23%, and the breaking strength of the fibers is 3.38 c N/ dtex;(4) The research has tested the main performance of the three kinds of new fibers such as apparent structure, density, tensile property, crimp property and dyeing property, and then analyzes the data of these properties. The results can be drawn refer to GB/T 14460-2008 Polyester Drawn Textured Yarn, the all properties of three kinds of new fibers have reached thehigh-class product category in the standard;(5) Three kinds of new fibers and the common products with specifications are used as warp materials, the polyester DTY yarns are used as weft materials, adopting a reasonable weaving process to weave six kinds of luggage fabrics according to luggage weaving process and actual production in the factory, then test the basic performance, mechanical property and fabric style of these fabrics, and analyzes the data of these properties. The conclusions can be drawn from the analysis of the properties of fabrics. Comparing the fabrics weaved in three kinds of new fibers to fabrics weaved in common fibers, the research shows it achieves a major breakthrough in the increasing of fabric thickness, while the basic weight is slightly changed; The strength and wear resistance of the fabric weaved in hollow fibers are weaker than fabrics weaved in common fibers while other two fabrics have no significantly difference, but all of them have reached the standard of luggage fabrics in strength and wear resistance properties; Comprehensive analysis of tensile, bending, compression and surface properties of fabrics and combining with the thickness of the fabric, it shows that the softness, fluffiness and fullness of the fabrics weaved in three kinds of new fibers have been improved from a very large extent, the results of test reach the desired goal. |
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