Preliminary Study On Li Textile Weaving Technology

This paper is mainly to study Traditional Li textile from the perspective of weaving technology. The key point of this paper mainly focuses on the main tool of Li textile weaving technology and its application analysis, digging deeply into two major principles which involves in jacquard technique and cross-stitch technique of Li textile weaving technology, further tracing the historical origin of Li textile weaving technology. As a traditional handicraft of Hainan, Li textile is generally using back strap loom as its typical loom, and Li Textile pattern will appear on top of the fabric by simple weaving principles at last. Li textile is generally composed of simple patterns, whose weaving technology occupies an important status in Chinese textile history of science and technology. Through discussing and analyzing the content of the historical documents and field investigation, summarizing the basic situation of Li textile weaving technology, it provides the basis for futural academic research of Li textile weaving technology, which has an important significance for protection and Inheritance, research and development of Li textile weaving technology. The text is divided into five parts:Introduction, summarization of Li textile weaving technology. Centered around Li Textile weaving technology, to make a brief review of predecessor's research results in Li Textile weaving technology; And sums up the research method in this paper. With a review of the research background and research methods, preparing an excellent foundation for the understanding of Li textile weaving technology and other related research work in the future.The first chapter, introduction and review of the history of Li textile weaving technology. Firstly, to concise the core content of Li textile weaving technology, which concerns about weaving principles and orders of back strap loom and pedal loom, the composition of back strap loom components, the decomposition application of jacquard technique and cross-stitch technique in back strap loom; Secondly, reviews the historical development of weaving technology, which begins with knitting, then gradually study deeply into the development of original back strap loom technology: According to the original back strap loom components that unearthed from Neolithic age, it confirmed the existence of the original back strap loom technology. Another weaving scene which provides strong evidence for the further development of the original back strap loom discovered in copper shell storage container which is unearthed from Yunnan Jiangchuan Lee Hills' and Yunnan Jinning Shizhai hills' ancient ruins; Then defines the scope of the pedal loom and describes the historical development of pedal loom and other types of looms; Moreover, also involves Li nationality weaving activities associated with superior geographical environment, ethnic production of taboos and folk tales.The second chapter, the weaving method of Li nationality. Dividing the weaving method of Li nationality into three categories:back strap loom (cross-stitch) weaving, card (card jacquard) weaving and pedal loom. Back strap loom (cross-stitch) weaving is the focus of this chapter, it takes Ledong country Qianjia town and Dongfang city Dongfang town as representative to describes the warping process before the yarn coils to the back strap loom, this process usually includes:removing off cotton seeds? spinning the warp thread into cotton coil? roiling cotton coil over coiling machine which becomes yarn? dyeing ? the yarn is wound into cotton coil again by using another coiling machine (looks like a car shape) ? roiling cotton coil over coiling machine? using some back strap loom components leading yarn into the loom? warping on the loom? weaving. Then according to the study, the process and principle in three kinds of technology of back strap loom weaving is analyzed, including jacquard technique, cross-stitch technique, card-weaving technique, considering that Li textile's cloth is a combination generated by jacquard technique and cross-stitch technique, also believes that back strap loom has the same components, maily by the warp beam, cord roller, shed rod, heddle stick, beating knives, shuttle, winding shaft, back strap and back strap sticks, etc. Back strap loom weaving usually utilize heddle stick and shed rod woven up and down alternately which form the shed in the end. Finally, briefly introduce the components and principle of pedal loom.The third chapter, Li nationality's case has been taken for an example to analyze the components and application of weaving technology. Detailed description come through the field investigation of weaving components and so on, which describes the use of location of back strap loom in Li nationality as well as the specific operation method in weaving. The components of weaving also marked with Li language's corresponding Chinese pinyin, these tools including the warp beam, cord roller, shed rod, heddle stick, beating knives, cross-stitch knives, shuttle, warp-supporting wood, scope-limited bar, winding shaft, back strap. In addition, also introduced the application of original back strap loom components in the Miao, Dai, Jingpo, Dulong, Wa, nationality in Yunnan, the Taiya nationality in Taiwan, the Yi nationality in Sichuan and other ethnic minorities. This chapter also studies the Li nationality's case of Hainan Mobil dialect area's ikat and single face weaving technique, Ha dialect area's cross-stitch weaving technique, Qi dialect area's card weaving technique, Sai dialect area's reversed face weaving technique, showing warp-arranging process in back strap loom and weaving process, at the same time, also introducing weaving components' scope, scale, use and other aspects.Conclusion, It makes a conclusion based on this paper and also gives some suggestions on the development of Li textile's technology.Based on three aspects research in the introduction to history, weaving principle and tool application, not only from the perspective of historical analysis of weaving technology, but also explore further process of technology and tools application through the field practice. This paper presents a real pichture of Li textile weaving technology.