Research On Bra Pattern Design And Evaluation Methods For Digital Made To Measure

Bra and breast are in a state of optimum fit. Breast shape characteristic is the basis of bra style design. The existing bra style design and bra pattern fitness are not able to meet the personalized needs of consumers. This paper has further studied bra pattern design methods between the underwear enterprises and the textbook. Firstly three-dimensional body scanner was used in this paper to extract human body model from the personalized needs of consumers and the influence factors of bra pattern design. From a sound scientific basis for understanding the breast shape characteristic analysis, the experience of bra pattern maker and the theoretical study of apparel pattern classification, pattern hierarchical design method was proposed scientifically for the pattern design process of pattern maker. Meanwhile, pattern design relational models were developed respectively and fitting evaluations were conduct for each bra sample which has used the models, finally bra product fitting evaluation and process for digital made to measure were carried out.The main contents and conclusions of the paper are as follows.(1)After comprehensive analysis of the influence factors of bra pattern design, a hierarchical design thought for the bra pattern design was put forward and the definition of each bra pattern(bra basic pattern, bra second basic pattern and bra final pattern) were given out.(2)The corresponding relationships between breast shape features and bra basic pattern characteristic were analyzed to establish.(3)The combination of bra draping method and three-dimensional apparel CAD technology, bra basic pattern 3D design was conduct at the environment of the unigraphics NX system and bra basic flat pattern was obtained by surface flattening. Thus bra basic pattern relational model was established and bra basic pattern sample was completed to conduct fitting evaluation to verify the correctness of the model.(4)According to the classification result of bra style, the bra second basic pattern relational model was established by analyzing the corresponding relation between bra style and bra basic pattern design. Meanwhile, the bra second basic pattern sample was made to conduct fitting evaluation to verify the correctness of the model.(5)The experiment of the analysis of the correlation between bra fabric elastic properties and bra pattern was carried out according to the outcome of the market research of the influential factors of bra pattern. The bra final pattern relational model was established by focusing on the analysis of the corresponding relationship between bra fabric and bra final pattern design. Meanwhile, the bra final pattern sample was made to conduct fitting evaluation to verify the correctness of the model.(6)The method of bra product fitting evaluation, including a series of evaluation index(size evaluation index, appearance evaluation index, comfort evaluation index) and the evaluation process were put forward based on digital made to measure.From the preliminary study and observation, the aim of the thought and method of bra pattern hierarchical design which carried out in this paper is giving comprehensive consideration and digital processing for the influence factors of bra pattern design and their relationship as far as possible. Meanwhile, it also provides a sound scientific basis for developing bra patternmaking method based on anthropometric measurement. The method of bra pattern hierarchical design could help designers conduct humanized design of styles and functions at the certain “basic pattern” in terms of client requirements, which they could create a new style quickly based on changing the style of basic pattern without opening a new file of new style. It shows the thought of knowledge driven automatic pattern making, which standardizes the pattern making process to design more fit and humanized bra pattern. The method of three-dimensional digital design for bra basic pattern which carried out in this paper realizes digitized draping, retaining all characteristics of individual chest curves. It also provides consumer an unique bra pattern file, which is propitious to protect and reuse personal pattern design works. It also improves effectively the efficiency of pattern making and provides technologies and methods to realize bra pattern digital design for bra enterprises.