| The European and American Fashion from 19 th to the Early 20 th Century had a great influence on the word costume.This batch of fashion collection quantity is very big,ranging from clothing to shoes and hats,bags and other accessories,we can find the fashion trends at that time from these collections.In this study,through the test and analysis of some of the thick fabric,we can understand the composition and structure characteristics of fiber material.And we will classify the aging situation according to the morphology of the fiber.In this way,we will have a better understanding to the aging condition of this batch collection and take the corresponding protective measures as early as possible.We have researched on his batch of heavy fabric from the angle of fabric,yarn and fiber,and we can come to the following conclusions:(1)Most of the heavy fabrics are plain weave and twill fabrics,the warp and weft density of wool fabric is less than silk fabrics and cotton fabrics.The color of the fabrics with rich dark tonal reflected the characteristics of the season.(2)We have divided the yarn into two categories according to the degree of twisting yarn: the twist yarn and untwisted yarn.Most twist yarns are cotton yarns and wool yarns and most untwist yarns are silk.The twist of the cotton yarns are much than wool yarns and the fineness of part of the wool yarns are uneven.(3)We have divided the wool fibers in different times into four levels according to the apparent morphology of aging conditions: a)The cross section is complete round or oval and the longitudinal scales are preserved intact.b)Cracks have appeared on cross section of the part of wool fibers,and the longitudinal cracks were reported in some scales.c)Transverse fracture was broken or cross section was semicircle,most longitudinal scales appeared rupture and loss.d)Cross section has not seen shapes and longitudinal scales have been damaged and only can be seen broken traces.(4)The wool fibers in this batch collections were tested by laser confocal microscope,optical microscope,and FTIR spectrometer,we could classify these wool fibers according to morphology degradation level: the first class aging and the secondary aging.On the whole,it was in a good preserve condition,but some cracking has begun to happen.(5)The cotton,silk and chemical fibers in this batch of the collections were tested by X-ray diffraction and FTIR spectrometer,we found that silk fibers has begun to appear degradation phenomenon,and the cotton and chemical fibers could resistance to external forces bitterly.(6)Four kinds of samples including flax,pineapple leaf fibers,and hemp fibers from American fashion and late Qing Expo were tested by optical microscope,scanning electron microscope(SEM)and FTIR spectrometer,the section size and infrared characteristic peaks of these fibers were analyzed,and relevant literatures were cited.The results show that the sample No.1 is flax fiber and the No.5 is pineapple leaf fiber.It provided a reference for identification and study of historical plant fibers.Compared with appearance of the modern hemp fibers,the crystallinity hemp in this collection has decreased and the longitudinal structure appears slightly damaged,and there have been signs of aging.The collections from fabric to the fiber composited of fabric were tested,and we took a key research on aging of wool fibers,and we have divided the wool fibers into four levels according to the apparent morphology of aging conditions.It provides a scientific basis to study the degradation of wool fiber.At the same time,it enriched the textile database of cultural relics,and it is meaning and valuable to develop textile cultural relics aging research. |
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