Research On The Color Card Of Chinese Textile Industry In 20^th Century

Color card is an indispensable tool in dyeing and weaving production,sales and scientific research.Its appearance is based on the scientific devolopment modern dyeing and color science.The analysis and research on it of Chinses texitile industry in20~thh are carried out,and the devolopment road of dyestuff and color science is reviewde.It is of great significance to guide us to study the plant dyes and to inherit the traditional color.Through the study of 155 pieces of color card material and image data,combined with the literature data,from the history,design and production of color card and color three aspects,this paper discusses the historical,scientific and artistic value of the color cards of Chinese textile industry in the 20th century,and draws the following conclusions:(1)Color cards were introduced from abroad in the early days of the Republic of China.They were early called dye samples or specimens.Most of them were jointly produced by dye plants and foreign firms and were issued in the form of chemical dye product manuals;In the middle and late period of the Republic of China,this form of color atlas appeared in China's silk weaving industry;After the liberation,China's chemical dye industry continued the tradition of dye samples.The textile industry is mainly in the form of color atlas.Most of them are called staining samples,color atlas,and some are also called color cards.After the reform and opening up,color cards were widely referred to as"color cards."Some color dictionaries published by color scholars can be seen as another form of color cards because of the appendix colored tickets.(2)German chemical dyes have been introduced into China in the early 1882,and early dyes of BASF and Elektron were sold by Allice and Siemssen and other foreign firms.After the establishment of IG Farben AG in 1925,dyestuff was distributed by Defag,including the direct,sulphur and hydrone,basic,acid,indanthren and naphtol dye.British dyes were introduced into the early Republic of China and produced by the British Dyestuffs Corporation Ltd.They are second only to Germany.The dyes in Switzerland,France,the United States and Japan were mainly introduced after World War I,and their varieties were focused.In the Republic of China,domestic dyes can only be produced about 7 kinds.After the liberation,our country begans to produce various dyes to meet domestic demand,especially in1958,the successful development of reactive dyes have reduced the distance from the developed countries.(3)The production of color cards includes five steps:material preparation,sample staining,sample testing,sample fixation,and binding.Among them,sample staining is the core of the production,mainly divided into two methods:rectangular and triangular proofing.Sample fixation is the key to the design,including six methods:paste,winding,binding,sewing,semi-fixing,and inlaying.(4)Color cards use words and numbers to illustrate colors.The source of text color is analyzed,the research show that the dye name in the color card during the period of the Republic of China was continued to use some traditional dyeing color names and at the same time was added some chemical dyes names,exotic color names and other industries to color names;In the early period of liberation,the color card in Shanghai area was continued to use some dye names in the republic of China,and also retained some traditional dyeing and weaving colors of the Qing Dynasty;With the publication of Sepu in 1958,some color card made by emerging textile industry or from the Shanghai area are influenced by it,and at the same tim,the latter retaind part of the traditional color names until the 1970s.(5)The color made by Shanghai Knitting Industrial Company in 1957 and China National Silk Corporation in 1960 and Shanghai Dyeing Factory in 1974 and Minestry of Textile Industry in 1979 are analyzed by National Colour System,the study found that:all the color on the blackness mainly are low;the color on chroma are low in the 1950s and warm color is higher than the cool;In the 1970s,the color on chroma mainly are medium and the cool color is the same as the warm.