Characterization And Analysis Of The Handle Properties Of Fabric

With the improvement of people's living standards in our country,the requirements for clothing health,functionality and comfort have become stronger.Comfort has become the primary consideration for people to choose clothes.Low-quality and low-cost clothing will face the risk of being ruthlessly eliminated by the market.Fabric handfeel is the subjective feeling of the human body when it comes into contact with the fabric and is used to describe fabric quality and comfort.There are two methods of evaluating the tactile feel of the fabric.The subjective evaluation method is to form a comprehensive feeling of the fabric through the human tactile senses,and subjectively evaluate of the handfeel style of the fabric according to the subjective feelings of the human.However,because the tester has more subjective factors in the test process,the test results of the same sample are unstable.As the test results of different people are normally different,and the test results cannot be recorded and evaluated in a numerical quantitative manner.Firstly,although the objective evaluation method can test the physical quantity of fabric with high precision and calculate other derivative indicators based on these data,the correlation between these indicators is more complicated,and the analysis is difficult,thus making it difficult to achieve comprehensive analysis.Secondly,as the evaluation result obtained by the tactile tester is objective,the tactile sensation is the sensory feeling of the human being,which is subjective feeling,the subjective and objective unification of the fabric touch is crucial.In addition,the KES and FAST fabric tactile style test systems do not take the thermal properties as factors influencing the tactile feel of the fabric into consideration,and each has problems such as a large number of test instruments required and high prices.Therefore,this article selected four different types of woven fabrics worn in the four seasons,including cotton(shirt fabric),polyester cloth,silk cloth,denim with different weaves.According to the current effective method standards,the thermal resistance and the thermal insulation rate were measured by the flat plate heat preservation instrument;the thickness value was measured by the thickness gauge;the bending stiffness of the fabric was measured by the stiffness tester;static and dynamic friction coefficient was measured by the friction coefficient measuring instrument;the FTT fabric touch sensor was used to test the compressive properties,bending properties,surface friction properties and thermal conductivity properties of the fabric and to characterize the above-mentioned representative fabric tactile properties.Based on the above test and tactile performance characterization,the tactile indicators obtained by the FTT system were compared with the performance indexes obtained by the traditional testing methods.And the correlation between different performance indexes under different test methods was also compared.The FTT fabric style evaluation index and the comprehensive scoring data were used to evaluate the selected different styles of fabrics,combined with the subjective evaluation of professional textile test analysts to verify the accuracy of the objective evaluation of the fabric feel of the FTT system.The conclusions are as follows:(1)The selected fabrics to analysis are denim cotton fabric,shirt cotton fabric,polyester fabric and silk fabric,belonging to 4 types of garment fabrics with large sales volume and obvious style characteristics.And they were tested according to the current standard by traditional testing instruments.The test results of the selected samples are shown as follows:for thickness,denim>shirt>polyester?silk;for friction coefficient,denim>shirt>polyester?silk;for thermal conductivity,polyester>>shirt>denim>silk;for bending stiffness,denim>>shirt>polyester>>silk;(2)Using the fabric touch tester(FTT)to test and analyze the same fabric samples with different style characteristics,the physical properties of the tactile sensation are as shown as follows:for thickness,denim>shirt>polyester>silk,for friction coefficient,denim>shirt>polyester>silk;for thermal conductivity and bending performance,unlike traditional instruments and current standards,the touch sensor is characterized by the heat transfer and bending required to apply the torque per rad angle(conventional instruments and current standards choose heat transfer coefficient and bending stiffness),denim>shirt>polyster>silk,denim>imitation silk>shirt>silk;thickness,friction properties,bending properties,fabric touch meter and traditional instruments are exactly the same,and by thermal analysis,thermal conductivity can be used to better characterize the thermal conductivity of woven fabrics;(3)Use the fabric touch tester to test the tactile evaluation indexes of different woven fabrics,and carry out analysis and characterization.The analysis shows that the fabrics with different weights which are designed and developed for 4 seasons have difference in tactile evaluation index.But the difference is not obvious except for denim cotton fabric.for all summer fabrics,because of their thin and light characteristics,whether it is denim fabric,shirt fabric,imitation silk polyester fabric or silk,it has the quality of high smoothness,softness and warmness.The scores of the tactile evaluation indicators of different seasonal woven fabrics analyzed have better reflected the style characteristics of their own,so the tactile evaluation index of the fabric feels was certain accuracy and objectivity;(4)The objective rating and manual subjective rating of the FTT fabric touch sensor have a level 1 difference in individual samples,and most of the samples remain uniform,confirming the feasibility of the fabric touch sensor to evaluate the tactile properties of the woven fabric.