Experimental Study On Finger Strength Training Method Of Mass Sport Climbing

Fingers play an important role in sport climbing.The strength of fingers has a great influence on climbers climbing ability.With the development of sport climbing,the design of the artificial climbing wall and holds are more different than ever before,which brings more challenging to climbers.Sport climbing is relatively young sport,there are a few of methods for finger strength training,and also less researches on sport climbing in academia.The purpose of this study is,a)find appropriate methods and measures for climbers' finger strength training,enhance climbers' overall finger ability;b)improve efficiency of finger strength training;c)through the experimental research,enhance the scientific training level;d)enrich the specific finger strength training theory of sport climbing,provide a reasonable training plan for the vast rock climbing group;e)explore the scientific training load,avoid the potential sport damages and injuries.44 climbers from WHSU and Yosemi climbing club are divided into two groups according to their climbing ability.No significant differences were found in four tests before experiment.Dynamic and static training method was applied respectively in the experimental group andthe control group,while the climbing training in two groups were thesame.The experiment last six weeks,two times per week.Training methods and measures were chosen according to the professionals,which were based on the specific technique of sport climbing.The measures are as follow: pull-up,finger board climbing,fingerboard army-jump,arm hang,arms bent gang,French pull-up,fingertip push-up,dynamic arm hang,catch solid sphere.The result shows that the dynamic training method brings distinct improvement on strength and power of hand,while the static training will enhance hand's strength endurance?...