Design Method And Product Development Of Jacquard Fabric With Micro-pleated Effect

As a classic design element,winkle has appeared on the main stage of clothing design since its appearance because of its strong three-dimensional effect and plasticity.There are three main processing methods of winkled fabrics: pressing,sewing and direct weaving,and at present,most of the wrinkle fabrics on the market are made by the reworking method,pressing or sewing fabrics.Due to the higher wrinkle degree,the exaggerated modeling,and other reasons like the comfort of the fabric,the wrinkle fabric is mostly used in the field of decoration or home textile,and less used as the clothing fabric.However,the jacquard fabric with micro-wrinkle effecr not only has the same unique visual effect as the wrinkle fabric,but also can use silk,flax and other comfortable materials to improve the comfort of the fabric.The research on wrinkle fabric mainly focuses on the wrinkle effect of the wrinkle fabric,and the more obvious,the better,but the research on the wrinkle fabric with mico-wrinkle effect has not appeared in China.This topic is based on the research on wrinkle technology at home and abroad,in-depth studies on the forming principle of jacquard fabric with mico-wrinkle effect,takes pressed wrinkle fabric as the reference of appearance characteristics,analyses the characteristics of jacquard fabric with mico-wrinkle effect,and establishes the appearance simulation diagram of jacquard fabric with mico-wrinkle effect;analyses the forming principle of the wrinkle part and the color block part,puts forward the use of weft backed weave and elastic yarn to directly weave the jacquard fabric with mico-wrinkle effect.With the weft yarn density,pleated area width and color block size as the research object,three kinds of different sizes were designed respectively and 27 comparative samples were obtained.and woven on machine finally.In order to examine the shape retention property of the fabrics,three representative samples were selected for elastic recovery test.The test results show that the samples designed and woven in this project have good shape retention property,which indicates that the design method of micro-wrinkled jacquard fabric is feasible to use the difference of yarns shrinkage with specific weave.Therefore,on the basis of this design method,two kinds of micro-wrinkle effect application designs are proposed and woven,one is the whole mico-wrinkle effect jacquard fabric,the design of the wrinkle is the straight line and the curve;The other is using the wrinkled area as part of the whole pattern embedded,so that the whole pattern presents a threedimensional effect.Considering the color effect of the mico-wrinkle jacquard fabric,two design schemes are proposed through the analysis of pattern and color,one is using the weaves of the non-wrinkled area to transit from warp weaves to weft weaves,thus increasing the color effect of the fabric,if the lines of the wrinkles are vertical and clear,the color of the warp yarn can also be considered to add to enrich the color effect of the fabric,which not only saves the cost,but also reduces the difficulty of weaving;the other is increasing the number of weft yarns' color,which such as using weft triple weave,which can change the surface and inner layer weave,so that different colors of weft yarns appear on the surface of the fabric,then increase the color effect of fabrics.Through the design method of jacquard fabric with micro-wrinkle effect studied in this topic,a new idea of wrinkle height and fabric color control in wrinkle fabric is provided for the design of wrinkle fabric,which is expected to be widely used in the fields of clothing,home textile and decoration.