| The concept of protecting the ecological environment has gradually taken root in the hearts of the people,and the textile industry also needs to keep up with the pace of the times.In order to cope with today's abrupt climatic environment,requirements for warmth retention are put forward while ensuring the comfort of sportswear.This paper uses environmentally friendly cottonsustainable cotton,combined with hollow polyester fiber to prepare sustainable cotton/hollow polyester blended yarn and sustainable warm knitted sweater fabric and conduct performance research.It adopts two spinning processes of 30 S compact spinning and 14 S open end(OE)spinning,choose the 5 kinds of blending parameters of sustainable cotton fiber accounted for 30%,40%,50%,60%,70% to obtain 10 sustainable cotton/hollow polyester blended yarn.Use one-by-one three-thread fleecy to weave the yarns which was the same blending ratio,and design 7 kinds of facing yarn lengths which are 40,41,42,43,44,45,46 cm/100 needles.We can obtained 5 groups fabrics with different sustainable cotton content.Observe the vertical and horizontal sections of10 kinds of yarns by microscope analyze the fiber transfer of the blended yarns,test and analyze the yarn evenness,hairiness and tensile properties.Finally observe the 35 pieces of sustainable cotton warm knitted sweater fabrics under a microscope,test and analyze their warmth retention,air permeability,and moisture permeability,make a three-dimensional interpolation map,judge the comprehensive performance of heat and humidity comfort by the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method of gray correlation weighting.The results of the study are as follows.(1)The results of the study on sustainable cotton fiber show that the micronaire value grade of sustainable cotton fiber is higher,the short-staple rate is lower,and the longitudinal twist and lateral waist circle of sustainable cotton fiber are more obvious,and the diameter is smaller.(2)The results of research on sustainable cotton/hollow polyester blended fibers show that:1).The outward transfer index of sustainable cotton fiber in 30 S compact spinning yarn gradually decreases with the increase of sustainable cotton content,and the inward transfer index of hollow polyester fiber gradually increases.Hollow polyester fiber is the majority of the surface fiber.The outward transfer index of sustainable cotton fibers in the 14 S OE yarn gradually increases with the increase of sustainable cotton content,and the inward transfer index of hollow polyester fibers gradually decreases.The surface fibers are mostly sustainable cotton fibers.2).The unevenness of30 S compact spinning yarn gradually increases with the increase of sustainable cotton content,the surface hairiness gradually increases,and the breaking strength and elongation at break gradually decrease.The 14 S OE yarn has less surface hairiness,and its unevenness gradually increases when the cotton fiber content gradually increases,the breaking strength and elongation at break gradually decrease simultaneously.The evenness,hairiness and elongation at break of 14 S OE yarn are better than 30 S compact spinning,and the breaking strength of 30 S compact spinning yarn is larger.(3)The research results of sustainable cotton warm knitted sweater fabric show that :1)Fabric surface hairiness and fabric thickness gradually increase with the increase of sustainable cotton content,and the thickness growth rate gradually decreases.The height of the loop on the front of the fabric and the thickness of the fabric gradually increase with the increase of the length of the facing yarn,and the increase in the thickness direction of the fabric gradually increases,and there is no obvious change in the loop on the reverse.2)The thermal resistance and Crow value of the fabric show a "W"-shaped change with the increase of the sustainable cotton content,and a small fluctuation occurs with the change of the facing yarn length.The thermal conductivity of the fabric presents an "M"-shaped change with the change of the sustainable cotton content,and it fluctuates slightly with the change of the facing yarn length.The air permeability of the fabric gradually decreases with the increase of the sustainable cotton content and the length of the facing yarn,and sustainable cotton content changes have little effect on fabric breathability.The frontal moisture permeability of the fabric shows that as the sustainable cotton content increases,it increases first and then decreases,and it fluctuates slightly up and down with the increase of the facing yarn length.With the increase of sustainable cotton content,the moisture permeability of the reverse side of the fabric shows a trend of increase first,decrease then increase,with the increase of the facing yarn length,there will be a small range of up and down fluctuations.3)The comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort performance of the fabric gradually increases with the increase of the sustainable cotton content.When the sustainable cotton content is less than 60%,the comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort performance of the fabric increases slightly.When the sustainable cotton content is greater than 60%,the comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort performance of the fabric is greatly improved.With the increase of the facing yarn length,the comprehensive thermal comfort performance shows a trend of first increasing,then slightly decreasing and then increasing.And when the sustainable cotton ratio is 70% and the weaving yarn length is 46cm/100 needles,the resulting fabric has the highest overall thermal comfort score.This process can be used to design and weave sustainable cotton/hollow polyester blended warm knitted sweaters.The research of this subject can serve as a good demonstration of sustainable cotton application and lay the foundation for advocating the comprehensive application of sustainable cotton,The use of sustainable cotton fiber for production and manufacturing together creates a good ecological environment,and provides a production basis for the preparation of thermal and moisture-comfortable warm knitted sweaters. |
PDF Full Text Request