| At present one-bath dyeing method of wool/polyester blend studied domestically and abroad is still to dye with two kinds of dyestuffs, i.e. disperse dyes and wool dyes. The method has not been applied widely mainly because of problems resulted from the great difference in dyeing property between wool and polyester fibre. On the basis of former researches on auxiliary solubilizing dyeing with disperse dyes, one-bath dyeing method of wool and polyester fibre with disperse dyes was developed for the first time in this dissertation. The color union, dyeing levelness, color fastness, dyeing kinetic and thermodynamic were studied systematically, and the dyeing mechanism and key factors were analyzed in detail.The main contents and results are summarized as follows:1. The effect of auxiliaries on the solubility, dispersion stability and absorption spectrum of disperse dyes are studied, and the relation between molecular structure of auxiliaries and their solubilizing effects are discussed. Agent LA series have strong solubilizing ability, and especially LA12 and LA18. Nonionic auxiliaries show stronger solubilizing ability to disperse dyes than ionic auxiliaries, and among them agent 4450, AES, NP-10, CL, Peregal O, leveler GS, and Augard 2HT perform better. LA12 has different synergetic effects after matching with different auxiliaries, among which agent 4450, AES, LA18, JFC, Aerosol OT, and Peregal O have distinguished effect. Disperse dyes with more electron donor groups in molecule have high apparent solubility in water. The dispersion stability of disperse dyes reduce with the increase of solution temperature. Ionic auxiliaries can improve the dispersion stability of disperse dyes more markedly than nonionic auxiliaries, and ionic agent AES, LAS, leveler GS, disperse agent 81 A, 85A, MF have strong promoting effect. Electrolyte in solution reduces the apparent solubility and dispersion stability of disperse dyes.2. The relations among disperse dyes, auxiliaries, polyester fibre and wool fibre are studied. Most of auxiliary molecules in solution can be absorbed by wool or polyester fibre and form a relatively stable fixation on them. Rising temperature causes the amount and rate increase of adsorption of auxiliaries on wool fibre, but the absorption on polyester fibre decrease. Wool fibre can be modified physically by Agent LA series so that the uptake of disperse dyes increase significantly. The morphologies of wool and polyester fibre treated with agent LAB change little according to TEM photos. Agent LAB can reduce the glass transition temperature of polyester so that dyeing temperature of disperse dyes can be dropped. With thetemperature rising, the hydrolysis of wool fibre become more rapidly, and when pH value above 8 or below 3, the alkali solubility of wool fibre increases markedly, but agent AES can slow down the hydrolysis of wool fibre in acid or alkali solution.3. The effects of auxiliaries on dyeing properties of polyester fibre and wool fibre are studied. Most auxiliaries are advantageous to increase the dye uptake of disperse dyes on wool fibre, while decrease on polyester. Agent 4450, AES, LA12, LA 18, and Peregal O show noticeable effects. On the basis of appraising indexes, such as dye uptake, soap washing fastness, dye mobility, a solubilizing dyeing agent LAB are developed. The influencing factors to uptake percentage of wool/polyester blend and color union are discussed for the first time, proving that the disperse dyes which have liner molecular structure with less or smaller aromatic substitutes groups, especially those having electron donors in coupling components in the structure, show better color union on two fibres.4. Through the orthodox-test, the optimum dyeing recipe is determined: disperse dye amount is l%(o.w.f.), agent LAB 3g/l, pH3.5-4.5, liquid ratio 50:1, dyeing for 70min at 98. According to this recipe, dyed fabrics with most of the disperse dyes, soap washing fastness are about grade 3-4, rubbing fastness are about grade 4, light...
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