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An artifact study of Harmonist patterned silk textiles, 1826-1852

Posted on:1992-03-03Degree:Ph.DType:Dissertation
University:The Ohio State UniversityCandidate:Swinker, Mary ElizabethFull Text:PDF
GTID:1471390014998023Subject:Home Economics
Abstract/Summary:
The Harmony Society was a nineteenth century religious communal society founded by George Rapp. The Harmonists, as they were known, lived communally, practiced celibacy, and worked for the welfare of the Society.; The Harmonist silk industry was started on a small scale in 1826 at Economy, Pennsylvania. At first the Harmonists produced silk for their own purposes. Later the industry was expanded and drew wide attention in the United States after 1838. Aging of the workers was one of several factors which affected the closing of the Harmonist silk industry in 1852.; This research was conducted in two parts. First, the stylistic and structural characteristics of eighty-five selected flat patterned silk textile fragments were examined, using microscopic, macroscopic, and colorimetric analytical techniques. The physical attributes of fiber, yarn, and fabric were evaluated to discern the skill of the Harmonists in sericulture and manufacturing of silk yarns and fabrics.; The purpose of the second part of this study was to assess the technical knowledge of raw materials, fabric production processes, and tools for successful silk sericulture and silk textile production. This assessment was done using primary and selected secondary sources. The technical knowledge was ascertained by an internal appraisal of the primary and secondary documentary evidence concerning cultivation, manufacturing, legislation, and exhibition.; The research demonstrates that the Harmonists had the necessary technical knowledge and skill for successful sericulture and silk textile production. They produced precisely made silk textiles using six different types of fabric structures incorporating various types of patterns. The consistency in coloration of the textiles indicates skill in dyeing as well. The Harmonists acquired technical knowledge through the correspondence with individuals in the field, reading of pertinent reports and journals on the subject, and from the hired craftsmen who came to Economy to instruct them. This knowledge led to the purchase of the best materials and equipment to produce silk fibers, yarns, and fabrics. Their skill is seen in the quality of the product which has been preserved and the awards received for their textile products.
Keywords/Search Tags:Silk, Textile, Harmonist, Technical knowledge
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