| Textile product is correlative to people's life. Different kinds of chemical from textile producing process are harmful to people as well as to the environment. So countries which mainly produce cotton attach much importance to do research on colored cotton. Research on colored cotton fibre and textile products have become a heat topic. However, the quality of colored cotton is worse than white cotton, which affects wear behaviors of colored cotton fabric. What's more, colored cotton yarn spun by traditional Ring Spinning technic has more hairiness and neps. Fabric made of such yarn is not glabrous and the pilling resistance of the fabric is worse, which confines the development of new colored cotton product to a certain extent. Universally, consumers say that the handle of colored cotton knitwear is too much soft and the keeping formation is not good. In order to develop a high added value colored cotton knitwear, it is very important to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitting fabric, especially the one with high proportion colored cotton fibre.The thesis mainly consisted of three parts.Firstly, four kinds of different spinning systems such as Ring Spinning(RS),Rotor Spinning(OE),Air-Jet Spinning (MJS) and Jet-Vortex Spinning(MVS) were investigated roundly somewhat. Spinning process technics and yarn structure were the important factors to affect fabric wear behaviors, which was realized after having known the development and spinning mechanism of four kinds of different spinning systems as well as the their corresponding yarn structures and application fields. Thus, embarking on yarn structure was one of effective ways to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric.Secondly, two blended yarns of colored cotton/white cotton 80/20 and 15/85 were spun by those four kinds of spinning systems. It aggregated 16 sorts of yarns. The yarns' essential performances such as mechanical property, twist, yarn hairiness, yarn evenness, friction property and looseness were tested and compared. The results showed that the RS yarn's strength and elongation were better than those of MJS yarn,OE yarn and MVS yarn. However, the hairiness of the new pattern yarns were less than RS yarn, especially harmful hairiness (>3mm)of them reduced distinctly, and it was about zero level for MVS yarn. Although the evenness of RS yarn was better than the others, MVS yarn had less thick places and neps in middle and high yarn counts than RS yarn. With regard to those three new pattern yarns, MVS yarn showed better strength and elongation than MJS yarn and OE yarn, and its strength was close to RS yarn. Therefore, using Jet-Vortex Spinning technic to spin colored cotton fibre in order to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric was this thesis important part.Finally, based on former research, performances of knitted fabric made of all kinds of yarns were tested and analyzed in the thesis. This part included the selection of fabric stitch and knitting machine, the determination of pretreatment technics as well as the test and analysis of fabric performances which involved strength and elongation, abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease resistance, dimension stability, surface quality, bending rigidity, air permeability and humidity penetration. With contrast of fabric performances, the results indicated that colored cotton fabric made of MVS yarn was more glabrous, and showed greater bending rigidity and handing stiffness performance than the other fabrics. The behaviors of the knitted fabrics made of MVS yarns such as abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease recovery, air permeability and humidity penetration were better too. Although the strength of MVS yarn was a little lower than RS yarn, which didn't affect MVS yarn knitting process and the wear behaviors of the fabric.The thesis was based on theory research and emphasized on practice and innovation. The innovation of this thesis was to use new spinning system technic to manufacture colored cotton yarn. On the theory research aspect, correlation between yarn structures and wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabrics were studied by contrast and analysis of different kinds of yarn structures. On test and analysis part, it reached a conclusion that Jet-Vortex Spinning technic was an effective way to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric with high proportion colored cotton fibre, especially on the fabric's surface glabrousness, handling stiffness and keeping formation. The research content of this thesis would provide reference for developing top grade colored cotton knitwear product. |
