Research On Bodice Prototype Of Knitwear Based On The Elasticity Of Fabrics

In recent years, along with growing of China’s knitted garment industry, the basic theory of knitted garment research has been put on the agenda. Due to the specific performance of elastic characteristics of knitting fabrics,there are differences between woven garments and knitted garment in prototype design,which Mainly reflected in knitted fabrics could reduce or eliminate the body float remainder by its own elasticity, to coordinate the relationship between the knitting clothing and human body changes.Since the late 1990 s, many domestic experts and scholars are begin to studied the knitted prototype, which mostly come out of moderation based on Japanese culture pattern with the character of knitted fabric, and it apply to loose type and fitted type knitwear. As for tight type knitwear that is made of high elastic knitted fabric, it is not only difficult to control the pattern size, but always influence the garment shape. So it is necessary to scientifically and systematically research the math principle of the size of tight knitwear pattern, and then build the tight knitwear pattern.The paper choose 10 representative high elastic fabric as the research object,with the key point of the elasticity test of knitted fabric, regarding building the no darts tight female upper knitwear pattern as the research target, through solid cutting out method,to research the math principle of the size of female tight knitwear pattern, and then come forward the process method of the high elastic female tight upper knitwear pattern. Main contents and achievements summary as follows:Firstly, the one-way stretching method was adopted in this paper to do the tensile in fixed load for one time or many times elastic tests in 10 different kinds of knitted fabrics.Analyzing in comparative the tensile properties of different knitting fabric from three aspects: the elastic elongation,the elastic recovery rate and the plastic deformation rate,which would be the basis of draping in tight prototype of knitted garment.Secondly,this subject start to study the no-province bodice prototype of knitted garment from two different perspective:(1) Under the comfortable condition of clothing pressure, the 10 different kinds of elastic knitted fabric are used to do no-province tight type three-dimensional cutting test in one standard mannequin,getting different detail data of tight knitting prototype. Comparing the draping data and summarizing the change trend of prototype,combined with the principle of plane drawing,thus the tight-prototype of knitting garment without province was established;(2) one fabric with better elastic was chosen from the 10 different kinds of knitted fabric, and was applied in no-province tight draping on mannequins and real people with different specifications. Compare the data of each test cutting, explore the changes of clothing pieces on each detail. The analysis method of mathematical statistics was adopted to study the mathematical principles of inch-setting in no provincial tight knitting prototype, and a processing method of bodice prototype pattern in knitwear was proposed: The Chest and neck line was set as the main control parts to calculate the regression relation formula between chest, neck line and the other parts, and then a bodice knitting prototype pattern without province in one flexible was established.Finally, compared the similarities and differences between woven prototype(the new Japanese cultural prototype) and the two tight prototype from drawing methods,structure processing, prototype application etc. deepening the understanding of the design characteristics of the knitting women’ tight prototype pattern.The establishment of no-province bodice prototype of knitted apparel provides a more simple and direct plate for the pattern design in tight knitting dress, further improve the pattern system of tight knitting garment, provide reference and basis for the perfection of theory system of structure design in knitting clothing, have certain innovation significance and practical value.