The Study On Peony Seed Oil As Cosmetic Base Oil

At present, our cosmetics plant oil is not self-sufficient, we need to import advanced foreign products. So the development of domestic special plant oil such as peony seed oil can enrich the kinds of domestic base oil resources. Most of Some mature cosmetic base oils are from the good edible oil improvement of processing technique into cosmetic base oil. Peony seed oil has become more mature as the processing technique of edible oil, while there is no domestic related research on peony seed oil as the cosmetic base oil. From the processing technique of peony seed oil and fatty acid composition to physical and chemical property of peony seed oil and the effect of peony seed oil on human skin moisture, oil and pH value, the article carries out developmental research on peony seed oil as the cosmetic base oil. The main results are as follows:Peony seed oil provides a technological range of technical parameters for us as the processing technique of edible oil. Set up parameter gradient in this technical parameter range to explore a peony seed oil processing technique which suitable for cosmetic base oil using. We ultimately determine that the temperature is 75℃, mixing time is 30 mins and adding the 4% oil weight water,which is the best conditions for degumming; the temperature is 70℃, alkali liquor concentration is 5% and reaction time is 70 mins,which is the best conditions for removing acids; the use level of active floridin is 4%, time is 60 mins and the temperature is 70℃, which is the best conditions for decoloring; The vacuum degree is 0.2Kpa, deodorizing temperature is 180℃ and deodorizing time is 90 mins, which is the best conditions for deodorization.The peony seed oil is more clear than the cooking peony seed oil and has the lower acid value in this kind of processing technique. It is more suitable for cosmetic oil.We find that the conventional processing technique has little effect on the fatty acid composition of peony seed oil, through analyzing the peony seed oil fatty acid composition and content in the refining process by GC-MC meteorology chromatography-mass spectrometry method. The relative percentage content of peony seed oil unsaturated fatty acid take-ups to 90%. During it, the highest relative percentage content of linolenic acid is 46.28% ~ 47.64%, the relative percentage content of linoleic acid is 29.04%~29.87%, the relative percentage content of oleic acid is 14.99%~15.48% and the relative percentage content of saturated fatty acid is 7.62%~8.16%. Unsaturated fatty acid is enriched in peony seed oil, which can promote metabolism of skin, soften horny layer and improve the moisture of skin.Physical and chemical property test conducts on peony seed virgin oil, degummed oil, deacidified oil, bleached oil and deodorized oil. The results showed that acid value, peroxide number, chroma and absorbance have obvious changes between before and after refining, while saponification value, iodine value, density and diopter are little changed. The refined peony oil’s acid value is 0.179 mgKOH/g, peroxide number is 1.890mmol/kg, saponification value is 189.700 mgKOH/g, light yellow, clear and transparent, the density is 0.9239 g/cm3 and peony seed oil has the strong absorbance in medium wave band. These physicochemical properties can meet the industry standards of cosmetic base oil.The grade evaluation on skin sensory carries on. It shows that the acceptance degree is higher on the moisture retention, moisture degree, ductility, odor and color of peony seed oil, and the lightweight feel and absorptivity are not very obvious. Peony seed oil has a direct effect on the skin moisture. Skin moisture rises in varying degrees during 60 mins using the peony seed oil and then the moisture tend to steady state. Peony seed oil has no obvious influence on skin’s pH value. Maybe it correlates with utility time and amount. Also has the possibility that peony seed oil has no effect on exudation of sebum. Therefore pH value has no obvious change. After analyzing the data, oil and moisture can propose a linear regression model during 90 mins of using the peony seed oil. Peony seed oil has a positive effect on human skin moisture improving the skin’s moisture degree.Peony seed oil is the domestic characteristic resources. This study aims to develop the characteristics of peony seed oil as cosmetic base oil and provide theoretical basis for extensive and diversified development and utilization of peony seed oil.