Design And Research On The Performance Of The Bulk Stretched Silk Fabric

As a new pure silk material, bulk stretched silk yarns has been prepared by inland researcher in the late nineties, obtained by special machining and chemical treatment, compared with common silk, the silk yarn has well fluffiness and elasticity except well specialities as pure silk. But the problem which effect of style character of bulk stretched silk yarns fabric and bulk stretched silk yarns give full play to good features by rational design remain studying.Based on the research of bulk stretched silk yarns character, select weft and warp combination,tissue factor,warp and weft density as change factors, design and weave different fabric samples, further study on the textile finishing craft, design and exploitation several new product.After research, obtain results as below:(1) Bulk stretched silk yarns can reach the effect of bulk and strengthen elasticity, after soaked 30min in 40℃士2℃constant temperature water , and placed in 80℃oven by 30min.Yarn elasticity elongation can reach 40%, elasticity recovery rate attain 85% above; the character of stress-strain without pretreatment bulk stretched silk yarns is similar to common silk, but breaking force is low about 25%~30% compared with common silk, the force of pretreatment bulk stretched silk yarns is little descend, elongation at break increases about 1.5~2 times. After 10 times anti-fatigue tensile test, recovery ratio of yarn would decline about 25%. Longitudinal form of bulk stretched silk yarns has thick details distribution, synthetic fluffy degrees reach 1.85~2.00 time.(2) By 3 times,40℃士2℃,30min machine wash and 60℃drying processes, the fabric may achieve the largest and relatively stable shrinkage of fabric. Sample with basic specification conditions, after finishing of interwoven type fabric with mulberry silk and bulk stretched silk yarns as warp and weft separate, the total shrinkage of fabric can reach about 10%~20%, better than the ordinary silk fabric obviously, fabric shrinkage of weft significantly greater than the warp, the weft shrinkage coefficient improve with the increases of weave ratio(fabric flabby gradually), reduce with the weft density increase, the effect of the change of warp density is not sure; pure bulk stretched silk yarns fabric sample has the obvious shrink performance, most shrinkage after washing is 20% to 30%. And explore pure weave type bulk stretched silk yarns fabric preliminary.(3) After the pine type post-processing of silk/turgor body elastic silk interwoven fabric, elasticity of compression,wrinkle resistance and air permeability significantly is better than ordinary silk fabric, and fabricfall is similar to silk fabric. The tensile strength of interwoven fabric is not affected by single intensity difference, on the contrary, breaking strength obviously is higher than common silk fabric. There is regularity influence on the compression,anti-wrinkle properties,air permeability on the change of weave,yarn density of intertexture, and on the condition of the sample, the effect of the change of fabric structure on the fabricfall is not clear.(4) Use grey clustering analysis method, concludes the comfort best optimization design for the fabric, in the existing weaved conditions, the result is coefficient greater than 2, weft density about 40% sample has fluffy and comfortable fabric style characteristics.(5) Based on the above conclusions, design different style and use classes bulk stretched silk yarns interweaved and woven fabric such as home textile class, women's class and tie class and so on, all can achieve favorable bulk and strengthen elasticity effect.This paper study results for the production and development of bulk stretched silk yarns lining has certain practical meaning and reference value.