| In recent years,with the continuous development of information technology,people's taste of life has been improved,health awareness has been constantly strengthened,and people have put forward more demands for the health-care functionality of textiles.And with the development space of functional textiles continues to expand,comfortable and healthy functional textiles are gradually becoming the hot theme and fashion of development.Under the influence of global warming,especially in summer,high temperature is easy to make human body sweat,causing discomfort and easy to breed bacteria.Therefore,it is of certain practical significance to develop a kind of fabric with moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial composite function,which can meet people's consumption demand for healthy and comfortable clothing.In order to develop wearable fabrics with good moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial function,we first considered that silk had a special position in wearing comfort and health care,but it still had the problems of poor wrinkle resistance and long-term antibacterial properties.Therefore,a new type of moisture absorption and quick-drying antibacterial polyester fiber was selected to interweave with silk for improving the fabric performance.In the thesis,the two cross-section of the functional fiber were photographed by SEM.The surface shape of the functional fiber was observed,and then the water return rate of the fiber and the mechanic character of the yarn were tested.The test results show that the transverse section of the moisture absorption and quick-drying antibacterial polyester fiber presents irregular bending and slightly flat shape,and there are many tiny particles inside.The longitudinal morphological structure of the fiber surface has some micro via and particulates,which adds the ratio superficies of the fiber and the water return rate,and is in favour of the function about moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial of the fiber.The fiber yarn has high strength,low elongation and strength,small initial modulus and small rigidity.In order to explore the influence of moisture absorption and quick-drying antibacterial polyester/bamboo yarn(70/30)content and structure on the fabric properties,this paper selected mulberry silk as warp material,moisture absorption and quick-drying antibacterial polyester/bamboo yarn(70/30)and silk yarn as weft material,and designed and weaved 14 kinds of fabrics in A and B series.A series fabrics were nine kinds of interwoven fabrics with the same weave and different content of functional polyester/bamboo yarn.Five satin weave was selected,and the proportion of moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial polyester/bamboo yarn(70/30)in the weft was gradually increasing,which is 0%,20.53%,25.62%,34.07%,50.82%,67.39%,75.61%,80.52% and 100% in turn.B series fabrics were five kinds of interwoven fabrics with the functional polyester/bamboo yarn and different weave.The weaves were 2/1 twill,four broken twill,five weft satin,eight weft satin and honeycomb weave.The effects of fiber content and fabric structure on the fabric functionality and other ordinary wearability were studied through the corresponding experiments on two series of fabrics.Through the experiments on the functionality(moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial properties)of A and B series fabrics and the wearability(mechanical property,air permeability,drapability,rigidity and flexibility,wrinkle recovery and pilling)of fabrics,the relevant data were analyzed,finally the test results were comprehensively evaluated by fuzzy mathematics.The results show that the proportion of moisture absorption and quick-drying antibacterial polyester/bamboo(70/30)blended yarn in weft yarn can significantly affect the moisture absorption and quick-drying properties,mechanical properties,air permeability,wrinkle resistance and pilling resistance of the fabric,but it has little effect on the antibacterial properties,drapability,stiffness,flexibility of the fabrics.Eight satin weave fabrics have better performance.According to the comprehensive evaluation results of fuzzy mathematics,when the moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial polyester/bamboo(70/30)blended yarn content is 80.52%,and the content of silk yarn is 19.48%,that is,the weft ratio of functional yarn and silk yarn is 4:1,and the structure is eight satin weaves,the comprehensive performance of the fabric is optimal,so this combination ratio is selected for subsequent design.Finally,using JCAD software to design patterns and weaving with the electronic jacquard machine,a total of 4 kinds of interwoven fabrics with beautiful fashion,moisture absorption,quick-drying and antibacterial composite functions are developed,which can provide reference for the subsequent development of other functional silk products. |
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