| With the improvement of textile science and human living standards,fabrics made of single fibers are not enough to meet people's needs.Nowadays,the development of synthetic fibers is limited due to their impact on all aspects of the environment,such as polyester fiber and acrylic fiber.So regenerated protein fiber has good development prospects.In this thesis,silk is selected as the warp yarn,collagen nylon filament and silk as weft yarn.We observe and analyze the structure of collagen nylon fiber by electron microscope.We also test and analyze tensile properties of collagen and nylon fiber single fiber and single yarn.We test the moisture regain of collagen nylon fibers.And then,we analyze the corresponding relationship with performance based on the test results.Knowing from experimental test results,the cross section of collagen nylon fiber is irregularly round,and its surface has no obvious pores;its longitudinal section is straight and has an irregular polyhedral shape;and the raised particles are attached to the cross section of the fiber,which indicates that the fiber contains collagen.And the protein content is about 2.465%.The moisture regain of collagen nylon fibers is 4.8%,which is higher than that of ordinary nylon fibers,and has better moisture absorption and moisture conductivity.The breaking strength of collagen nylon fiber is 5.3cN/dtex and the elongation at break is 18%,which are higher than that of ordinary nylon fiber.The single yarn strength of collagen nylon filament is 381.93cN,which is improved compared to ordinary polyester filament.In order to study the influence of the arrangement ratio of collagen nylon filament and silk in the weft of the fabric and the structure of the fabric on the abrasion resistance of various fabrics,this paper uses(22.22dtex/24.44dtex×1 8T/S×2)6T/Z silk as the warp yarn and uses 77.78dtex collagen nylon filament and 22.22dtex/24.44dtex×5 silk as weft yarn.We design A series fabrics,and mainly discuss the influence of different arrangement ratios of silk,collagen and nylon filaments in weft on the comfort and functionality of the fabrics,while keeping the A series fabrics the same structure.We design 9 different weft input ratios(0:1,1:4,1:3,1:2,1:1,2:1,3:1,4:1,1:0).We design the B series fabrics,mainly discussing the impact of different fabric structure on the abrasion resistance and functionality of the fabrics,while keeping the weft-to-weft ratio of the fabrics the same(1:1),designing 5 different tissues,in order of 2/1 twill,four broken twills,five satin patterns,eight satin patterns,honeycomb tissue.And then test the performance of the A and B series of fabrics,including anti-pilling,wrinkle recovery,drape,tensile fracture,abrasion resistance,air permeability,moisture permeability and UV resistance The fabric with the best comprehensive performance is judged by fuzzy mathematics.According to the comprehensive analysis of fuzzy mathematics comprehensive evaluation method,when the content of collagen nylon filament in the weft of the fabric is 25%and the tissue is five satin lines,the silk/collagen nylon filament interwoven fabric improves the wrinkle recovery of the fabric and It has anti-ultraviolet performance and basically maintains the comfort of silk fabrics.To improve the competitive advantage of new silk fabrics effectively,we analyze various functions of the fabric and determine its application in the field of textiles and clothing.And we have three series of pattern designs for interwoven fabrics.They are simple style series,British style series and ethnic style series.There are two designs for the simple style series,one is based on feathers and the other is based on crosses.The British style series mainly uses the grid as the basic element,changing the size of the grid and matching the dull colors to form a basic British style.The ethnic style series uses paper-cut borders and patterns as the main pattern,with small patterns to form an ethnic style.And then we use PS design software and JCAD jacquard design software to design and develop fabrics that have both a beautiful appearance and comfort and functionality. |
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