Research On The Structure And Properties Of Copper Ammonia Fiber And Dyeing Processing With Natural Dyes

The main subject of this paper is studying the structure and properties of copper ammonia fiber and exploring its ecological dyeing process. Although cuprammonium is not a new fiber, but its excellent appearance and wearability make its products shine in the major fashion week. From the cloth of high-end suits to elegant ladies suits, copper ammonia fiber from the "behind the scenes" go to "stage", and let the world know this kind of low-key and luxurious fibrous material. In October2011, Asahi Kasei Corporation exhibited a new fiber material named "Bemberg" and its blended fabrics in China’s textile and garment Brand Park ("Fashion Valley"), thus got the domestic textile and garment enterprises’ attention. Because there are no literature and systematic study about the copper ammonia fiber structure and the performance, so the problems in dyeing and finishing during the fabric processing were solved by experience, because there is no theoretical basis to give a reasonable explanation. With the more widely application of copper ammonia fiber, this study is very urgent that in order to avoid problems of wet chemical processing and provides a more accurate scope of parameters for dyeing and finishing,.Analysis the morphological of copper ammonia fiber, aggregation structure, molecular structure, mechanical properties and thermal properties by scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-diffraction, the degree of polymerization measurements and thermal gravimetric analysis, then studying the resistant acid, alkali, oxidizing and reducing agents and other chemical properties of copper ammonia fiber. The Concluded is:(1) cross-section of copper ammonia fiber is a regular semicircle, and have a uniform grooves and longitudinal stripes, the crystallinity of copper ammonia fiber is66.75%, and the degree of orientation is83.7%, the structure is more compact make it hard to dye dark; the polymerization degree of copper ammonia fiber is452, much lower than hemp and cotton, but higher than that of viscose, and copper ammonia fiber’s characteristics groups are almost same with viscose fibers.(2) the thermal decomposition starting temperature of copper ammonia fiber is292.2℃, it is easier decomposed than cotton; the breaking strength of the cuprammonium fibers was obtained 2.49cN/dtex, and the breaking elongation is8.62%mechanical properties are higher than viscose, but slightly lower than cotton.(3) the chemical stability of copper ammonia fibers is preferably, good stability to alkali and reducing agent and poor stability to acids and oxidants, when a acid concentration of40%, a temperature of50℃; oxidant concentration of20%and a temperature of100℃, the copper ammonia fiber almost completely dissolved, and the mechanical properties are completely lost.Firstly, it is necessary to study the stability of sunlight-resistant, PH value of resistance, resistance to temperature stability of three dyes, sodium copper chlorophyll, gardenia yellow and turmeric dyes. In order to ensure that research the best process in the appropriate scope. First, it is important to discuss the amount of dye, dyeing temperature, the concentration of salt and dye staining time to inpact the dying performance, then through the four factors and three levels of orthogonal experiment to discuss the optimal dyeing process, and having the fabric color fastness test under the optimum process conditions.The results showed that rubbing and perspiration fastness of dyed fabrics are better, but color fastness to water and sunlight is relatively poor, using mordant processes to improve the fabric color fastness and further improve the utilization of dyes, comparison the alum with rare earths (praseodymium chloride), and studying the advantages of the new mordant. Then comparison three mordant processes, pre-bath, with bath and after the bath, and contrasting the dye uptake and K/S values under the same conditions, the best selection of mordant process is after bath. Concluded is that:(1) the optimal sodium copper chlorophyll dyeing process without mordant dying conditions are amount of6%, the temperature is80℃, the amount of salt30g/L, time is60min, the best mordant dyeing conditions is mordant concentration of2%. temperature is60℃, time40min.(2) the optimal gardenia yellow dyeing process without mordant dying conditions are amount of4%, the temperature is90℃, the amount of salt50g/L, dying time is60min, the best mordant dyeing conditions is mordant concentration of3%. temperature is70℃, time40min..(3) the optimal turmeric dyeing process without mordant dying conditions are amount of8%, the temperature is80℃, the amount of salt40g/L, time is60min, the best mordant dyeing conditions is mordant concentration of3%. temperature is70℃, time30min.The dye rate and K/S values were improved by rare earth mordant, and the utilization of dyes was effectively improved. Comparison with no mordant dyeing, the color fastness to water and sunlight increase1or2level after rare earth mordant.