| Fine-denier raw silk is a new development direction in silk varieties, it improves thequality, raises the level and enriches the variety of silk fabric.This paper develops13kinds of fine-denier raw silk and analyses their structure andproperties.The results show that the cross section shape of fine denier mulberry silk isirregular triangle;fine-denier raw silk has the structure of β-sheet, α-helix and random coil.Besides, compared with ordinary one, sericin content is more than21.16%,and increases0.47%; crystallinity is less than46.3%, and reduces content by1.07%. For Liang guangNO.2,Qiufeng×Baiyu, Bai yu×Qiu feng,Gui can NO.2,Yuan zi×You zi, Su xiu×ChunFeng and male silk, the breaking tenacity, breaking elongation and moisture regain arerespectively larger than or equal to4.00cN/dtex,29.64%and11.09%, respectively increaseby7.82%,14.71%,10.24%. but the thermal property of fine-denier raw silk is basically thesame as the ordinary silk.This paper select Qiufeng×Baiyu, Yuan zi×You zi, Su xiu×Chun Feng and male silkto develop fabric, and analysis their wearability. The result shows that permeability,moisture permeability and hygroscopicity is respectively more than683.78mm·s-1,2559.27g.m-2.d-1,6.25cm, increases0.75%、0.44%、8.13%; drape coefficient for Qiufeng×Baiyu, Su xiu×Chun Feng and male silk are less than45.52%, reduces3.99%; creasyrecovery angle, breaking strength break elongation are more than137°,250.60N,17.16%,inspectively increase3.03%,4.45%,7.32%. UPF index for male silk increases3.17%, but Qiufeng×Baiyu and Su xiu×Chun Feng are similar to common one.To further explore the style characteristics of fine-denier raw silk， KES-FB fabricstyle instrument was used to test and analysis. The results show that the fabric of Yuan zi×You zi is special，for other fine-denier raw silk， complaisant spend, richness and scroopare respectively more than4.62,4.29,6.26,increase10.79%,9.44%、0.64%; smooth degree, stiffness and flat degree are less than4.77,8.08,7.15, and respectively reduce by... |
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