| Pigment dyeing has several advantages, such as, comprehensive color range, brightcolor, water and energy saving, less pollution, good light fastness, strong adaptability etc.Therefore, it has been more and more popular in the textile industry. However, there arestill some problems, such as stiff hand, not deep color yield, poor color fastness to rubbingand so on, which limit its applicability. Newly developed ultra-fine pigment can reachnanometer, with a large specific surface area, high surface energy characteristics, andtherefore it has high tinting strength, bright and pure colors, and can improve color fastness.In addition, with the development of cationic modified technology, intense color can alsobe obtained using pigment exhaust dyeing.In this paper, ultrafine pigment with about150nm of average particle size wasapplied in pad dyeing and exhaust dyeing of cotton fabric. Cationic modifier was prepared,modification process was discussed; pigment pad dyeing and exhaust dyeing process wereoptimized, the influence of pigment dyeing on the fabric style was analysised, hoping toprovide a theoretical basis for the development of ultra-fine pigment dyeing process.Low molecular weight of chitosan as material raw,2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride as an etherifying agent, cationic modifier for cellulose fibers wasprepared, and the modification process was optimized. The experimental results showedthat when the molar ratio of2,3-epoxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and chitosanwas4:1, chitosan quaternary ammonium salt synthesized yield was80.9%, cationic degreewas3.78mmol/g, modification effect was better.Pad dyeing process was applied in cationic treatment and pigment dyeing of wovencotton fabric. The optimum application of home-made chitosan quaternary ammonium saltwas acquired:30g/L of chitosan quaternary ammonium salt, at pH value7, double-dip-double-nip process,60%of mangle expression, drying at80℃for3min. The ultrafinepigment pad dyeing process of woven cotton fabric treated with cationic reagent was further studied. The influences of pigment dosage, adhesive and anti-migrant amounts,curing temperature and time were investigated. The optimum dyeing process was asfollows: when the pigment amount was30g/L, the amount of adhesive was20g/L, anti-migrant20g/L, baking at150℃for4min. In this process of dyeing, dyed fabrics couldget K/S value of5.35, dry rubbing fastness grade3-4, wet rubbing fastness grade3,washing fastness of4-5.Exhaust dyeing process was applied in cationic treatment and pigment dyeing ofknitted cotton fabric. The optimum application of home-made chitosan quaternaryammonium salt was acquired:8%owf. of chitosan quaternary ammonium salt, at pH value7, a bath ratio of the modification1:30, treating at60℃for30min. The ultrafine pigmentexhaust dyeing process of knitted cotton fabric treated with cationic reagent was furtherstudied. The influences of pigment dosage, adhesive amounts, curing temperature and timewere investigated. The optimum dyeing process was as follows: when the pigment amountwas4%（o.w.f.）, dyeing at60℃for30min, and then4%（o.w.f.） adhesive was added,curing at room temperature for10min. In this process of dyeing, dyed fabrics could get K/S value of3.99, dry rubbing fastness grade3-4, wet rubbing fastness grade3, washingfastness of4-5.Fabric style was further studied after pigment dyeing. The results showed that thehand feeling of the woven fabric got worse, the compression elasticity got better, surfaceproperties improved after ultrafine pigment pad dyeing. With the increase of the amount ofadhesive, the hand feeling of the padding fabric is getting worse, the compression elasticitybetter. When the pigment dosage increases, the handle of the dyed fabric becomes a littleworse, the compression elasticity gets better. With the increase of the amount of sodiumalginate, the overall change trend of padding fabric style is feeling worse, compressionresilient better. Baking temperature at150-170℃, curing time in the range of3-6min,dyeing fabric style did not change significantly. The air permeability and moisturepermeability of the fabric decreased after ultrafine pigment pad dyeing.The handle of the knitted fabric got worse, the compression elasticity got better,surface properties improved after ultrafine pigment exhaust dyeing. With the increase ofthe amount of adhesive, the hand feeling of the exhausting fabric is getting worse, thecompression elasticity better. When the pigment dosage increases, the handle of the dyedfabric becomes a little worse, the compression elasticity gets better. The air permeability of the fabric decreased after ultrafine pigment exhaust dyeing. With the increase of adhesivesand pigments, fabric permeability declined, permeability variation. Moisture permeabilitychanged relatively complex after ultrafine pigment exhaust dyeing. With the increasingamount of the binder, moisture permeability got better and then got worse. With theincrease in the amount of pigment, fabric moisture permeability constantly deteriorated. |
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