Extraction Of Grape Seed And Its Application In Cosmetics

Most grapes come from cultivars of Vitis vinifera,grape seed extract(procyanidins)is a mixture of polyphenols from the wine grape seeds with the efficacy of antioxidant and free radical,anti-tumor,anti-cardiovascular and cerebrovascular diseases,anti-bacterial,anti-inflammatory,anti-radiation,anti-fatigue,anti-gastric ulcer,promoting hair growth,convergence moisturizing,whitening and so on.Procyanidins are widely used in a variety of industries.The extraction of procyanidins from grape seeds was carried out by ultrasonic assisted-extraction after crushing,sieving and petroleum ether degreasing.Based on the results of single factor experiment,ultrasonic power,extraction time and ethanol concentration were selected for Box-Behnken response surface optimization experiment.The best conditions of extracting procyanidins were ultrasonic power 70%(total power:380W),extraction time 85 min,ethanol concentration 48%,extraction temperature 50?,the ratio of raw material and solvent 1:20.The experiments were repeated two times.The crude extracts were purified by macroporous adsorption resin,HPD-100 resin was selected for the purification experiment of macroporous adsorption resin.Wherein the eluent was 90% ethanol.The static adsorption kinetic curve showed that the resin adsorption reached equilibrium after 300 minutes.There were not only catechins,procyanidin B1 and epicatechin retention peaks but also other unknown components retention peaks in macroporous adsorption resin elution determined by HPLC.The results showed that the grape seed extract needed further purification.The extract was further purified by 10 KD,5KD,1KD size exclusion membrane ultrafiltration then the extract solvent stability significantly improved.The filtrate retreated by 1KD size exclusion membrane lost more activities than the other size exclusion membrane through HPLC,so 10 KD size exclusion membrane was selected for ultrafiltration.The filtrate was assayed in vitro antioxidant efficiency,DPPH · scavenging,FRAP total antioxidant capacity and the oxygen free radical scavenging capacity.Results showed that the filtrate had good antioxidant properties.According to a certain process preparation of grape seed extract rich in a kind of eye essence adding grape seed extract was made up according to a certain cosmetic prescription.The essence was evaluated for 8 weeks on Chinese women's eyes.The experiment results showed that the essence adding extraction was safety and affinity to eye skin.eye essence,the human skin samples were evaluated for 8 weeks of human trial by the Chinese women's subjects.It was confirmed that the skin of the sample rich in grape seed extract had good skin safety.After 8 weeks trial,the eye skin tightness(by visual judgment)was significantly improved.The results suggested that procyanidin had effects on improving the tightness of the eye skin.In summary,the successful extraction and purification of the grape seed extract procyanidins with physiological activity.The grape extract had antioxidant effect,providing a scientific basis for its application in cosmetics.