| According to the demand of the consumers and the orders of enterprises,the research and development of the products are positioned as warm and light shirt fabrics.Using cotton and acrylic fiber as raw materials,a cotton/acrylic wool-like functional fabric is developed combined with excellent moisture absorption and soft touch.In this paper,the following research is mainly done.This subject chooses dry spinning acrylic fibers with the specification of 1.1dtexX38mm,the wet spinning acrylic fiber with the same specification and the long-staple cotton as raw material.The microstructure,mechanical properties,crimp properties,friction properties and electrical conductivity of dry spinning acrylic fiber and wet spinning acrylic fiber were tested and analyzed.The spinning process of spinning yarn of 14.76tex was studied by using 70/30 blending ratio between dry acrylic and combed long staple cotton.The best technological parameters of spinning process were as follows:carding speed:780r/min,cylinder speed 360r/min,wire speed ratio 2.17,cover speed 80r/min,web tension 1.37;Roving process:The spinning speed is 950r/min,the roller center distance is 41×52×53mm and the twist factor is 80;Spinning process:the spinning speed is 15600r/min,the twist factor is 383,the post-draft multiple is 1.16,and the roller distance is 19x27mm,jaw gauge block is 2.25,negative pressure is 50.Acrylic fiber is not resistant to strong acid and alkali,and cannot bear high temperature.On the basis of the study on the damage degree of acrylic fiber by desizing,mercerizing and liquid ammonia finishing,the optimized finishing parameters of cotton/dry acrylic fiber blended fabric were obtained.The optimum technological parameters of singeing were as follows:speed of 90 m/min,flame intensity of 10 mbar,the location of the crater is straight burning;the optimum processing parameters of the pre-baking finishing were baking temperature of 145?;Softener soft finish formula is:anionic softener 9106AL fatty acids in an amount of 20g/L;The optimum process parameters of the sanding process are:the speed of the sanding machine is 20m/min,the speed of the big roller is 110r/min,the tension of the cloth is 26kg and the speed of the brush is 90r/min.The optimal processing parameters of negative ion finishing:the quantity of anion finishing agent is 20 g/L,30 min of immersion time,130? of curing temperature and 3 min of baking time.The negative ion release of the finished fabric was 3367 pieces/cm3.After testing and analyzing the mechanical properties,anti-pilling,permeability,moisture permeability and water absorption of cotton/dry acrylic fiber blended fabric and cotton/wet acrylic fiber blended fabric with different finishing methods,it is reported that cotton/dry acrylic fabric has better tensile strength,tear strength,pilling resistance,moisture permeability and water absorption than cotton/wet acrylic fabric,but its air permeability is worse than that of cotton/wet acrylic fabric.Fabrics with liquid ammonia and sanding finishing showed the highest tensile strength.Tensile strength of fabrics treated with liquid ammonia and soft finishing and with liquid ammonia and non-iron finishing reduced significantly,especially reduction of tensile strength of fabrics with liquid ammonia and non-iron finishing is particularly evident.After repeated washing,tearing strength of overall fabrics changed little,but showed a downward trend.The pilling property of the fabric treated with non-iron finishing was better than that of the gray cloth,but the pilling effect of fabrics with sanding finishing and soft finishing was the worst.However,the effect of the water washing on the pilling was not significant.The air permeability of liquid ammonia,liquid ammonia free iron and liquid ammonia soft finishing fabrics is better than that of the unfinished gray cloths.The air permeability of the fabrics finished by liquid ammonia and sanding is the worst,lower than that of gray fabrics.After washing,the permeability of the fabric decreased gently.Moisture permeability of fabrics with liquid ammonia and soft finishing are worse than that of fabrics with other finishing.Due to the use of non-ionic water-repellent silicone oil softening agent DT-50B,the water absorption of the fabric with soft finishing is the worst. |
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