| As a three-dimensional form that is very useful in terms of decoration and function,the semi-stereoscopic structure has become one of the most innovative contemporary design languages.The semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect fabric is a typical three-dimensional modeling fabric with a unique visual aesthetic and is widely used in the field of clothing and home textiles.At present,the semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect fabric on the market is basically made by a secondary processing method,and the wrinkle effect fabric directly woven by the woven method is of a single type.In response to this problem,a semi-stereoscopic wrinkle-effect jacquard fabric based on a special organizational structure has been developed.At the same time,it has geometric art and complex innovative techniques,enriching the type of semi-stereoscopic wrinkle-effect fabric,saving the cost of weaving and increasing the added value of the product.Achieved the purpose of innovative fabrics.The main research contents of this topic are as follows:On the basis of understanding and analyzing the geometric features of semi-stereoscopic components,the principle of semi-stereoscopic composition is analyzed from the perspective of characteristics and processing methods.The method of origami can be used to summarize the semi-stereoscopic composition categories that can be applied to woven fabric design.Three types of folding and mesh folding,and establishing a mechanical model of bending deformation of fabrics,analyzing the formation principle of creases and wrinkles of fabrics,and self-optimizing mechanism of spatial creases of geometric patterns,and high-efficiency and high-quality production of woven fabrics with wrinkle effect Provide a certain theoretical basis.This research analyze the relationship between geometric composition,geometric tissue laying,warp and weft yarn combination,yarn material,warp and weft density and jacquard fabric semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect.Designed with a geometric pattern to match the weft double structure,and the parallelogram is designed as a geometric unit by repeating and changing into a square continuous pattern,which is divided into a peak line wrinkle area,avalley line wrinkle area and a non-crease area.After the fabric structure design and the width design of the corrugated area,a method of directly weaving and forming a semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect jacquard fabric is proposed.In practice,three types of wrinkled area width,three kinds of spandex covered yarns with different core silk specifications and five warp and weft yarn densities are designed,and 45 kinds of comparative samples are woven.Analyze the evaluation principle of the wrinkle height and the flatness of the non-crease area,and propose a method for evaluating the formability of the semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect jacquard fabric,which is mainly used to characterize from two aspects.First,by measuring and calculating the difference between the theoretical wrinkle height of the fabric and the actual wrinkle height(35)H,and secondly,observing the macroscopic and microscopic flatness of the non-crease area,and referring to the AATCC standard,formulating the non-wrinkle of the jacquard fabric only applicable to the semi-stereoscopic wrinkle effect.Evaluation criteria for area flatness.After 45 samples were tested for wrinkle height and non-crease area flatness,the comprehensive evaluation results show that:(1)When the spandex covered yarn is 22.2/83.3 dtex,the wrinkle width is 2 mm,and the weft density is 900/10 cm,the difference between the fabric theory and the actual wrinkle height(35)H is the smallest,only 3.8 mm,non-wrinkled The appearance evaluation grade of the area is the highest CN5,and the surface of the non-crease area is observed to be very flat and stiff,and the forming effect of the fabric is the best;(2)The weft density increases,and the difference between the fabric theory and the actual wrinkle height(35)H generally decreases first and then increases,improving the appearance flatness and stiffness of the non-crease area;(3)The spandex specification factor has a great influence on the flatness of the non-crease area.If the spandex core thread size is too large,the corresponding elastic yarn float line will be produced,and the spandex core thread specification is 77.7 dtex,the value(35)H is the largest,and the appearance evaluation grade is CN1 B,the fabric is almost flat,and the forming effect is very poor;(4)The value(35)H increases with the width of the wrinkle area,the value(35)H increases with the width of the wrinkle area,and there is an increasing tendency.The width of the wrinkle area is too large to cause unevenness of the cloth surface in the non-crease area,resulting in poorforming effect.Since the size of the fabric's shape retention characteristics is not quantifiable,the corresponding measurable indicators are found.Based on the formability analysis,30 kinds of samples with better effect are selected,and the indexes of the samples are determined,and the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation is used.The method was applied to analyze the effect of the width of the corrugated area,the spandex covered yarn of different core specifications and the warp and weft density on the shape retention of the fabric.The evaluation results are as follows:(1)When the spandex core wire size is 22.2 dtex,the weft density is 900 pieces/10 cm,and the wrinkle area width is 6 mm,the fabric has the best shape retention characteristics;(2)The fabric retention characteristics of different weft density are from good to bad: 900pieces/10cm>1000 pieces/10cm>800 pieces/10cm>700 pieces/10cm>600 pieces/10cm;(3)The fabric of the spandex core wire with a specification of 44.4 dtex is better than that of the fabric with a size of 22.2 dtex;(4)When the spandex core wire size is 22.2 dtex,overall,the fabric retaining characteristics of different wrinkle widths vary with the width of the wrinkle zone.When the spandex core wire size is 44.4 dtex,the width of the wrinkle zone is different.The fabric retention characteristics did not change significantly and there was no strong regularity. |
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