| In recent years,knitted shoe upper has been widely welcomed by enterprises and consumers.The knitted upper on computerized flat knitting machine has many advantages,such as one-time molding,varied patterns,beautiful appearance,light weight and air permeability,high comfort,low cost and so on.Waterproof and moisture-transfer fabric is a functional textile with high technology content and high research focus.In the process of sports,waterproof and moisture-transfer fabric can transfer the sweat produced by human body from the body surface to the clothing surface as soon as possible and evaporate to ensure the comfort of human microenvironment.However,in the field of waterproof and moisture-transfer research,there are more researches on waterproof and moisture-transfer woven fabrics,and less researches on related knitted fabrics.The traditional waterproof and moisture-transfer fabrics use coating,film lamination and high density to achieve their functions,while the research and achievements on the waterproof and moisture-transfer fabrics,especially on the waterproof and moisture-transfer upper,are almost blank by using the characteristics of yarn itself and differential capillary effect.Therefore,using the mechanism of waterproof and moisture-transfer to weave the waterproof and moisture-transfer knitted upper through the combination of organization,density and yarn on the computerized flat knitting machine,and studying its knitting process and performance has a good research significance and broad development prospect.First of all,according to waterproof and moisture-transfer mechanism and the characteristics of computerized flat knitting machine,four main influencing factors are determined: yarn type,yarn twist,fabric organization and fabric density,and the level of each factor is analyzed and determined.Among them,the polypropylene low elastic yarn and polyester low elastic yarn with different single fiber fineness are selected as the research objects,different yarn twist is added and capillary effect test are carried out to get the critical twist of each kind of yarn within the knittable range and the value range of twist is determined,three kinds of knitted fabric structure are selected:platting stitch,double layer and spacer structures,after trial knitting on the machine,the appropriate density range is determined.According to the above analysis,the specific knitting process is determined.Thirteen different kinds of knitted fabrics are made based on gauge 12 computer flat knitting machine and their water-resistance and moisture-conductivity are tested.The influence of yarn type,yarn twist,fabric structure and density on the water-resistance and moisture-conductivity is studied.According to the test results,the best process parameters are determined as follows: the structure is double-layer structure,and the surface yarn is 150D/144 fpolypropylene and inner layer yarn are 300D/96 F polyester,the twist of outer and inner layer yarn is 30T/10 cm,and the the sinking depth of upper and inner layer yarn are 75.This paper explores the principle of upper design,designs the upper plane model,calculates the number of stitches and lines of upper on the computerized flat knitting machine and narrowing and widening process of corresponding parts according to the best process parameters,designs the upper plate making and obtains the fully formed upper.Finally,the comfort and mechanical properties of upper,such as air permeability and moisture permeability,tensile properties,wear resistance and bursting performance are tested and analyzed.The results show that the upper has good air and moisture permeability,good mechanical properties,which can meet the requirements of comfort and durability of the upper during wearing.It provides a new research direction and thinking for the development of waterproof and moisture-transfer fabric and upper. |
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