Testing And Evaluating Of Fabrics' Handel Style And Comfortable Performance For Cotton-type Men's Shirt Fabrics

Shirt is one of the indispensable garments in modern men's life, a variety of new fabrics are emerging, how to overall evaluate the shirt fabrics' performance and develop both with good performance and unique style fabrics are an important mission of shirt fabric manufacturers.From present market, 29 pure cotton men's shirt fabrics and 9 new cotton-type men's shirt fabrics have collected as the research samples, except of one bamboo/cotton blended fabric, the other are interlaced fabrics, in which warp yarn is combed cotton, while weft yarns are raw silk, Tencel fiber, soybean fiber, milk fiber, PLA fiber, cotton XLA core-spun yarn and PTT fiber respectively. We tested and evaluated the fabrics' handle style, using principal factor analysis to simplify the test items and analyzed the correlation of handle style with fabric specifications, finally further tested fabrics' comfortable performance.In the handle style test and evaluation, we tested and set up mechanical properties' fingerprint map of pure cotton men's shirt fabric adopting KES-FB Fabric Style Instrument, which clearly indicates fabrics' mechanical properties range and average, besides compared the differences of 9 cotton-type interlaced fabrics. At the same time, we calculated the basic and overall handle style of 29 pure cotton fabrics then compared 9 new1cotton-type fabrics style value by using Kawabata style calculation formula. The results indicate: JC/ raw silk, JC/Cotton XLA core-spun yarn, JC/PTT fiber interlaced and bamboo/cotton blended fabrics as the new cotton-type fabric developments have the good performance.In the handle style's principal factor analysis and the correlation analysis with fabric specifications, we simplified 16 items which express fabric handle style into four principal factors, they are respectively: deformation and rough factor, flexibility factor, hardness factor and surface neat factor. Besides, from analyzing cotton fabrics' basic handle value and specification parameters we obtained: fabric stiffness and anti-drape-stiffness are significantly correlated with warp and weft yarn linear density,weft density and fabric's gram per square meter. In the comfortable performance testing, we compared the air permeability, water vapor permeability and drape performance, through analyzing we obtained that: cotton type fabrics' air permeability is not largely depend on the yarn material, but mostly relate on the fabric structure, the looser of fabric, the lager of air permeability. Fabrics' water vapor permeability mainly relates with yarn moisture regain, when the yarn moisture regain is high the water vapor permeability is good as well. Drape performance is affected by fabrics' combined properties, among which JC/raw silk, JC/PLA fiber, JC/soybean fiber, JC/milk fiber interlaced fabric with stiffness, high aesthetic factor, are suitable for develop stiffness shirt fabric.The results of this paper have the practical significance and the reference value for fabric manufacturers developing cotton-type interlaced or blended fabrics.