Study On Sirospun Of Ramie (Linen) Yarn And Their Fabric Properties

Now many factories produce the bast-fiber products as a way to survive,but the hairiness of these yams become a mainly problem. Particularly in the spinning process,as bast short fiber is hard,the yam will have a lot of hairiness.And in the weaving process,as the friction with the equipment,the yam often strip hair,then become hair tablets,filled with cloth and not easily shed,and seriously affect the quality of cloth,while also lowering the product efficiency.So the study on bast-fiber product with sirospun is not only try to reduce the costs of processing,but also solve the problem about hairiness and poor performance of anti-pilling of the yam.And the pressure bar improves the quality of the sirospun yarn.In this paper,the study was focused on the sirospun process of linen/cotton blended yarn and pure ramie yam.The research mainly includes:To produce linen / cotton blended and pure ramie sirospun yarns in the traditional ring spinning frame,which had been installed the double-trumpet.Through single-factor test,the influence of the parameters, such as the spaces between the two roving in the double-trumpet and the twist factor,on the yam performance,were tested and analyzed.Then the appropriate ranges of these parameters were obtained.Through the application of orthogonal experiment design,parameters(the twist factor, the spaces between the two roving and the traveler weight)of the sirospun were optimized.The pressure bar was installed on the sirospun process to improve the yam evenness.The influences of the parameters(the distance of the back draft zone,draft ability)on the yarn quality were tested and analyzed.And the proper range of process parameters was optimized.The fabrics made of sirospun yarns have more superior characteristics than the fabrics made of the relevant traditional yarns.First,the factors those affect yarn quality were researched.The craft parameters(the spaces between the two roving and the twist factor), employed in the processing of linen/cotton blended sirospun yam and ramie sirospun yam,were changed and tested.The results showed that the spaces between the two roving mainly affect the hairiness and the unevenness of yarn.The better spaces between the two roving of 32~S linen/cotton yarn should be 6mm-10mm,and that of 36Nm pure ramie yam should be 4mm-8mm.The results also showed that the twist factor of yarn affected the hairiness,tenacity and the unevenness of the yam.The better scope of the twist factor of 32~S linen/cotton yam should be 130-150(αm);and that of 36Nm pure ramie yam should be 95-115(αm).Second,the processes of linen/cotton sirospun and pure ramie sirospun were optimized.Refer to the three factors(the spaces between the two roving,the twist factor and the traveler),the three-factors orthogonal experiment was designed to find out the best combination of the three parameters.It was found out that the best combination in 32~S linen/cotton sirospun was A3B2C2 or A3B2C1(the twist factor was 150(αm),the spaces between the two roving was 8ram,the traveler was Fo5/0 or Fo7/0). And the best combination in 36Nm pure ramie yam was A1B1C3,that meant the twist factor was 95(αm),the spaces between the two roving was 4mm and the traveler was wool-ear-21#.At last,the best processing parameters combination were certificated in factory.The improvement of the sirospun yam quality caused by the pressure bar,was also researched.In the case of linen/cotton sirospun,the factors, such as the distance of the back draft zone and the draft ability,effect on the yarn quality was tested.Then the better parameter region was found out:the distance of the back draft zone was 36mm,the draft ability was 1.25-1.40. Meanwhile,sirospun yams with and without the pressure bar,traditional ringspun yarns with and without the pressure bar were processed and compared,which verified the quality improvement of sirospun yam was caused by the application of pressure bar.Finally,the performances of fabrics,made of linen/cotton and pure ramie sirospun yams respectively,were tested.It showed that the fabric made of sirospun yam was smooth,soft,fewer hairiness,good shiny and clear texture,had higher break-strength,burst-strength and tear-strength, had good wear-resistance,anti-wrinkle,anti-pilling,bending stiffness,but bad permeability.In short,the comprehensive performances of fabric of sirospun yam were superior to the fabrics of traditional yams,which is helpful for the developing thin and light fabrics made of bast-fiber.