Research Method Of Silk Fabric Slippage Tests

The slipping property of fabric is the critical factor which can influences fabric's visual values and garment formability, it has a close relation with the factors such as fiber, yarn and fabric structures. In the part of experiment, we tested the slipping property for four different kinds of silk fabrics by seam method of Chinese National Standards. In the part of theory, Peirce's Rigid-thread Model of the woven fabric has been introduced as the starting point. Then we analyzed the powers at crossing point of single warp and weft during the process of stretching, according to the Newton's law of motion and the law of conservation of momentum. At last, we built up the mathematical models for calculating the slippage resistance of yarns of plain weave silk fabrics, twill silk fabrics and stain silk fabrics.Since warp is easier to slip along weft direction than weft along warp direction, so the fabric slippage resistance can be sufficiently indicated by warp slippage. The loading power shall be considered in B method, we advice to use the load of 45N for gossamer.The mathematical models systematically integrated the factors that can influence the slippage of yarns, such as fabric structure, weight of fabric, fineness of yarns, the frictional coefficient between yarns and warp and weft density. The slippage resistance results calculated by the models can be conformed to the experimental data. Based on the confirmed models and the method of derivation, we analyzed the slippage property which influenced by the respective structure parameters, by which we draw the conclusion that, the fabric slippage can be reduced, as the fineness similarity of warp and weft increased.The paper systematically analyzed the form and principle for slippage of silk fabric, and established the relationship between parameter of fabric structure and slipping property. We can estimate the slippage resistance of yarns in silk fabric by the mathematical models, providing the theoretical basis of developing and design of silk fabrics.