Study About Luchuan Hakka's Custom Of Consuming Pork

The research on hakka in Guangxi is gradually developing and becomes deeper and deeper, present text came to the hakka's cooking culture of Guangxi and did research in Luchuan, where hakka live in a compact community. It purposes to understand the hakka's custom of consuming pork by microscopic view, and then to understand their cooking custom and its subtext by macroscopic view, to seek from surface to inside, and to rediscover the cultural connotation, thereby revealing the Luchuan hakka's cultural psychology and inner world from one side, and enriching the library of studies about hakka's history and culture and ethnic group culture of Guangxi. Besides, it can provide some references when developing and exploiting the brand of Luchuan pig, and then promote local humanistic construction and economic development, contribute to Guangxi cooking culture's research and use as well as cultural and economic construction.Present text adopted many methods to research, consulted documents, did fieldwork, went to the Wushi Street in Wushi Town of Luchuan to do a field survey, researched a particular case, analysed the phenomenons by theories of folkloristics, anthroplogy, ethnology, sociology, medicine, history and so on, in order to probe for the characteristics of hakka's cooking culture in Luchuan, and then reveal the spirit, qualities and connotation of their culture, took the food and drink as main line, extracted the hakka's custom of consuming pork from all levels of their cooking custom, and applied comparative study to research these phenomenons, used parallel comparison and longitudinal comparison.Present text holds that the hakka's daily custom of consuming pork in Wushi Street is different from their festive custom of consuming pork, but the two also communicate with each other, especially in the conditions that socialist economy is developing and living standard is boosting gradually, the gap between the two customs has narrowed. But festival has its special cultural connotation, for this reason, the festive custom has marked and strong meaning of memorial rites, symbol and so on. Moreover, the daily custom and the festive custom are both in a dynamic process, they are developing and changing, but the former changes quickly than the latter.In essence, the difference between family flavour and restaurant flavour is the difference of their nature. Small family has quite big limitations in choosing materials, cooking skills, types of taste and so on, family member don't ask too much of the colour, smell, taste, appearance, container, quality of food, they more value nutrition, convenience, taste that suit themselves and inexpensive but substantial food. With the needs of market, restaurants have to meet the demands of customers through various ways and forms in order to strengthen competitive ability, so they attach great importance to all sides of dishes. Restaurant flavour is rather sensitive to social changes, they have a relatively high speed of imitating and following suit, to some extent, the changes of family flavour are affected by restaurant flavour.The way that hakka in Wushi Street regard pork as nutritious and therapeutic food has a certain rationality, with the developing of modern science and the changing of people's conceptions of health, it will become more scientific, various and popular, and pay more attention to aesthetic values of colour, smell, taste and so on.In the respect of dietary rules, many taboos die out gradually with people's improvement in cognition. Because of the overall situation of Wushi Street is complex, conditions and residents'level of various parts have a certain gap, the differences between families are marked also, moreover, many external and newborn taboos emerge in a narrow or wide scope, the taboo present a complicated appearance.Local delicacies like Wushi tender boiled trotters, Luchuan roasted sucking pig and the taro buckles flesh, they have both material and spiritual culture, as the favorite dishes of hakka of Wushi Street, especially as the festival food, they embody a strong mentality of pursuing fortune and avoiding disaster of local hakka, and show their value orientation of praying for safety and happiness and looking forward to progress and light, they mirror the cultural perspective that what's the meaning of pork in the local hakka's life in wide field.As the gift that hakka of Wushi Street use to amuse gods, the pig in a effective scope, which has two couples of classical propositions of dual opposition that about"whole"and"part"and"raw"and"done", has the same nature and feature. The pig as the sacrifice mostly be enjoyed by people finally. Local hakka hold that the sacrifice is a blessing from gods, it has soul after offering, and so it can drive out evil spirits and become lucky food. In the common people's view, enjoying the gods'charity absolutely is not blaspheming them but is a way of norshipping them, therefore, amusing gods become amusing human, and the gift that is used to amuse gods becomes the gift that is used to amuse human finally. Whether the gift that is offered to gods or the gift that is presented to people, the pork acts as a bond between them, it lets the relations between human and gods and the relations between people become more close and more stable. In a certain sense, the gift is a bribe that the giver gives to the receptor. As the gift, the pork is used to amuse gods as well as human, it is the most general gift, and also the biggest gift to hakka of Wushi Street.Hakka's dietary custom have taken shape because of specific living conditions, it surely will change because of the changes of real environment. The Wushi Street in Luchuan County is in a certain area, where has good transport facilities and thriving trade, with the development of history, the local hakka's custom of consuming pork is changing, because of the deepening of reform and opening-up, the frequency of external exchange, the advancement of science and technology, the development of productivity, the innovation of dietetic conceptions and so on. As the important food resources to Luchuan hakka, the Luchuan pig has an advantage. Luchuan forms a hakka cultural circle with neighbouring regions, like Bobai, Beiliu, Rong County, Yulin and so on, local people begin to pay attention to the exploitation of Luchuan hakka's diet. But there are many questions need to attach important to, for example, people have to show concern over the mentality of ethnic group during the course of exploiting, highlight the local cultural characteristics and so on, we must give weight to the"people"as well as the developments and changes of their culture, and value all the cultural meanings behind appearance.